The city of Douai is located just one hour by train from Paris (Gare du Nord), in the Nord department and in the new Hauts-de-France region. I had the chance to discover it for the first time this year with my friend Sabria from All around the girl. I must say that I enjoyed the calmness of this red city with its many brick walls.
The city currently has about 40,000 inhabitants with a very large metropolitan area. In terms of history, Douai developed a major cloth industry starting from the 12th century along the banks of the Scarpe River. This specialty is visible on the city coat of arms, which is entirely red precisely because of the tradition of dyeing and cloth-making. It was also a Flemish city from 950 until the reign of Louis XIV, when it became French. This is the reason why we find a significant Flemish tradition on-site.
The city is also renowned for the Gayant giants that one can see during the Douai carnival (they were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2005) during the month of July. Apparently, this carnival is truly an incredible moment to experience! The birth of Monsieur Gayant (a character with a wicker body) dates back to 1530 and he very quickly became the emblem of the city.
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Table of Contents
Ideas of things to see and do in Douai
As per usual, I suggest a small selection of things to see and do (which I have obviously tested) during your stay in Douai. I really recommend that, if it is open, you go for a stroll in the Ruelle de l’Enfer (Hell’s Alley), which is entirely painted red because it is located in the old cloth industry district, but is named so because of an old mill that used to be there and evidently made a “hellish racket.”
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Visiting the Belfry
The belfry, a Gothic masterpiece of the Middle Ages, and the carillon can only be discovered through guided tours. You will need to climb the 196 steps of the tower to admire the 62 bells of the carillon. The large bell “la Joyeuse,” which rings the hours, weighs 5,500 kilos all on its own!
By arriving at the very top of this communal belfry, which dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries (and is inscribed on the UNESCO list like 23 other belfries in the Hauts-de-France region), you will have a magnificent view of the city. Originally, the monument was used to ring the bells to punctuate the life of the city, whether to announce danger and sound an alert, or to announce celebrations like weddings. It should be known that there were lookouts on the belfry until 1914! At the end of the tour, one also discovers the magnificent rooms of the city hall.
The tip: you can attend a series of free organ concerts between the months of May and September.
On Saturday morning from 10:45 AM to 11:30 AM, the carillonneur plays (except in July and August and during school holidays), and so you can attend these concerts for free if you visit at that time. Stefano Colletti, the carillonneur of the belfry (one has existed since 1391), is one of the best in the world, and we had the chance to see him play live.
My advice: bring foam earplugs for the tour if you go while the carillonneur is playing, because the sound volume when you are nearby is quite impressive.
Douai Carillon / Town Hall Belfry entrance via Rue de la Mairie Prices: €6 / €4 reduced From September to June: every day at 10:30 AM, 11:30 AM, 3:00 PM, and 4:30 PM (except Monday mornings) In July and August: every day at 10:30 AM, 11:30 AM, 3:00 PM, 4:30 PM, and 5:30 PM
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Visit the Arkéos Archaeological Museum-Park
In the main building of this archaeological museum, the permanent exhibition is divided into chronological periods from the Paleolithic to the Middle Ages. A fairly well-made audio guide provides in-depth explanations throughout the tour in front of the display cases and exhibited objects. The museum’s collection gathers about 1,500 objects that testify to the daily life of our ancestors and their environment, and these objects come mainly from old funds or archaeological excavations carried out in the Douaisis region. The venue also regularly offers temporary exhibitions.
Finally, the establishment also has an archaeological park presented outdoors with reconstructions of buildings from the Middle Ages. At certain times of the day, you can also attend explanations and reconstructions of ancient techniques through demonstrations of experimental archaeology.
Arkéos Archaeological Museum-Park 4401, Route de Tournai 59500 Douai Open every day except Tuesday from 10 AM to 6 PM from September to April, and every day from 10 AM to 7 PM between June and August Prices: €8 adult / €6 reduced (in high season) The tip: free the first Sunday of every month
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Visiting the Chartreuse Museum
This museum is installed in part of the old Charterhouse convent and possesses some very beautiful collections, especially regarding Flemish art, of course, and a part of the permanent collections is also devoted to the history of the city. Moreover, the Chapel of the Charterhouse, a vast nave bathed in light, allows for the presentation of a very beautiful collection of 19th-century sculptures in a grandiose space.
I had the chance to discover the museum during the Night of Museums this year. I am particularly fond of this event, which opens the doors of cultural venues to everyone and also allows one to visit museums at night.
Chartreuse Museum 130 Rue des Chartreux Open every day except Tuesday from 10 AM to 12 PM and from 2 PM to 6 PM Prices: €4.70 / reduced €2.35 / free for under-18s and job seekers The tip: free admission for all on every 1st Sunday of each month, but also for the Night of Museums, for example
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Conducting the Investigation in Douai
This treasure hunt in the city center allows one to discover the streets and monuments of the city by answering riddles and puzzles. You have to solve these mysteries by gathering information and clues throughout the city. Obviously, as I love games, I really liked this concept, even if I have to admit that I found the questions quite difficult… At the end of the investigation, I still received my “Master Brewer Diploma,” which I wasn’t a little proud of, I can tell you!
Investigation in Douai, Brewers' Secrets Duration: 2h30 Every Saturday at 2:30 PM between the months of June and September Prices: €8.50 / reduced €6.50 / free for up to 5 years old Registration with Douaisis Tourisme (reservation.douaisis-tourisme.fr) at 03 27 88 26 79
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Going for a boat ride
This very pleasant trip along the water in an electric boat allows you to discover a view of the city from the Scarpe River. It is also an opportunity to see the gardens and facades of the houses in a different way and to understand the essential role of the waterway in the city’s development. During the trip, you will also get a guided tour on the 2,000 years of Douai history, while being lulled by the water, which is very pleasant.
The tip: after the ride, at the Courthouse pier, you can gain free access to the old cells of the famous character Vidocq, who was from Douai.
Boat Tours on the Scarpe Weekends and public holidays in May, June, and September From Wednesday to Sunday in July and August from 3:00 PM to 6:30 PM Duration: 30/40 minutes (10 people max per boat) Prices: €6 / reduced €4 Meeting point at the Courthouse pier, Place Charles de Pollinchove in Douai Reservation at 03 27 88 26 79 or on reservation.douaisis-tourisme.fr
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Relaxing at Sourceane
This venue is entirely dedicated to sports, leisure, and well-being, and it is located in the eco-district of Le Raquet in Douai-Sin-le-Noble. Indeed, the establishment is powered by a biomass heating plant. It is the ideal place to spend time and relax for a few hours.
On the program: swimming pool, sauna, Jacuzzi, hammam, spa, outdoor pools, water slide, well-being area, herbal tea room…
My advice: remember to bring a pair of flip-flops and a towel, otherwise you will have to buy them on-site.
Sourcéane Aquatic Center SPA of the Douaisis 60 Avenue de la Liberté, Sin-le-Noble Prices: swimming section €4.30 for children from 3 to 14 years old and €5.30 from 15 years old / aquatic area + well-being €21.60 and €36.90 duo entry / all areas for one day €24
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Vintage car ride in the Douaisis region
This little outing was an opportunity to discover the territory around the city, which was once an important region rich in coal mines. I unfortunately don’t know much about mining heritage, but I must say that this little outing whetted my curiosity and made me want to discover more about the subject!
It was also very nice to take this ride in vintage vehicles. For me, it was aboard the legendary Volkswagen Combi, but there are several cars for this type of ride, such as a 4CV, an R8, or even a 4L. In addition to the ride, the vehicle’s driver told us the history of the Combi, but also of the region! And then the excursion ended with a gourmet stop.
Vintage car ride in the Douaisis region Prices: €20 / €15 reduced Duration: 2h30 Visits on Sundays from May to July Meeting point: 70 Place d'Armes Douai
We made a few gourmet stops on the way, because the Douaisis region is also an important land for market gardening:
- The Ferme noisette au beau thym (Hazelnut and Thyme Farm) in Sin-le-Noble is currently undergoing organic certification, and it is also an educational farm that offers workshops for children. It is a real pleasure to go there to buy farm products directly, but also to discover some animals: cows, chickens, donkeys, sheep, pigs, rabbits (too cute!!!!)…
Ferme noisette au beau thym 742 rue Neuve Prolongée 59450 Sin le Noble open every day from 9 AM to 12 PM and from 2:30 PM to 6 PM except Monday mornings Farm visit price: €4
- The Cueillette de Bugnicourt (Bugnicourt Picking Garden) is open from May to September and offers many activities. Already, obviously, picking fruits and vegetables, but also herbs and flowers, all from healthy agriculture that respects the environment. You can also visit some farm animals or buy local products directly in the shop.
Cueillette de Bugnicourt Route Nationale RD 643 between Bugnicourt and Aubigny-au-Bac open 7 days a week from 9 AM to 12 PM and from 2 PM to 6:30 PM from May to September (closed Monday mornings)
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My good addresses in Douai
As per usual, I am sharing below the few good addresses I had the opportunity to test on-site, including a hotel and a few restaurants.
Culinary specialty of the city: the plaisir de M. Gayant, a cheese aged with Maroilles.
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Destination Café
This little address is a very nice coffee shop located in the center of Douai, not far from the Belfry. It can therefore be a perfect stop before or after your visit to the monument. For my part, I tested the French press coffee (€3 for 35 cl), which you can choose from those offered by the address, but you can also have a latte macchiato (€4) to enjoy some pretty latte art. For your information, the brand also sells very good coffee if you want to bring some back home!
Destination Café 92 Rue de la Mairie, 59500 Douai
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Where to have a traditional lunch? Estaminet de la Petite Place
This bar-brasserie, located in old Douai, is housed in a building that dates back to the 17th century. Regulars come here to eat traditional northern cuisine in a very friendly atmosphere. Regarding the dish, I advise you to taste a very typical dish of the region, the Welsh, a type of croque with melted cheese on bread. Here you can taste the version with Maroilles or Tome de Chimay (€16). It is not an example of lightness, but it is good!
To drink: Goudale, a local beer that is made in an old local brewery (€5.40 for a 33cl bottle).
Estaminet de la Petite Place 2, Petite Place 59500 Douai Closed on Sundays and Monday evenings Price: lunch menu (from Monday to Saturday) at the Estaminet with 1 choice €11 / 2 choices €14 / €16 appetizer + main + dessert + drink
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Where to eat? Restaurant Boterzing, the singing butter
This address was my big culinary favorite of the trip! Open for about a year, this restaurant is installed in a very nice industrial decor and offers high-level, extremely creative bistronomic cuisine. At the heart of this address, the Maison Prévost, we also find the gastronomic restaurant of chef Jérôme Prévost, La Table des Échevins, who also officiates at Boterzing. This young, talented chef is a local, who wanted to open this double address in Douai with his wife.
On the side of the bistronomic restaurant Boterzing that I had the chance to discover, it is already a high level, for prices that are really very, very affordable for this level of cuisine (see below in the “info” section). In short, you will have understood, if you go to Douai, I cannot recommend enough that you have at least one meal of your stay at Maison Prévost!
Boterzing 10, Rue de la Massue 59500 Douai Closed Mondays, Tuesdays, Saturday lunch, and Sunday evenings Price: appetizer + main or main + dessert €23 / appetizer + main + dessert €30
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Where to have tea time? Au 32 Douai
A nice place to sit down and have a hot drink, accompanied (or not) by a little sweet (or savory) treat.
The little extra: a beautiful terrace hidden at the back of the establishment, therefore quiet for sunny days.
Le 32 Douai 32 Place du Barlet 59500 Douai open every day except Monday
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Where to stay? Hôtel La Terrasse
I confess that I wasn’t totally thrilled by this 4-star hotel, especially regarding the room, which I didn’t find to my taste, but well… I also regretted, for example, the absence of a kettle to make herbal tea in the evening (and you know how much I appreciate that when I’m traveling), and I think that’s a shame in a hotel of this standing. Otherwise, nothing to complain about regarding the very warm welcome of this family establishment (only 13 rooms). A special mention for the breakfast served in a superb 19th-century conservatory with a lot of charm.
Hôtel La Terrasse 36 Terrasse Saint-Pierre 59500 Douai Prices: from €85 per room
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Thanks to Douaisis Tourisme and Fluxus Communication for this invitation to discover Douai.
I hope that with all this, I will have made you want to discover Douai, and if you, too, have your good addresses and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Melle Bon Plan Photos not royalty-free, photographer's authorization mandatory before any use
