Today I am taking you to Eure-et-Loir, a department in the Centre-Val de Loire region, which is easily accessible from the capital as it is located about an hour away by train from Paris. In a previous article, I told you about its prefecture, Chartres. Today, I invite you to explore the western part of Eure-et-Loir and let yourself be carried away by the relaxation and calm of the Perche region. This is actually an area I already knew a little bit, as I spent a weekend there in 2020 at the La Tour d’Aligre gîte. This territory is rich in forests, a quarter of which are managed by the ONF (National Forestry Office). Eure-et-Loir is therefore a department I am starting to know well, and for which I have already written several articles on the blog (link by clicking) if you are interested.
My favorite photographer and I visited the Perche in October 2020 for a long 3-day weekend of slow tourism (meaning, taking our time). And we returned in July 2024 for a getaway to discover the capital of the Perche: Nogent-le-Rotrou! This article recaps the experiences from both of those stays.
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A getaway to Nogent-le-Rotrou, capital of the Perche
Nogent-le-Rotrou is the economic capital of the Perche, because despite its strong rural character, the town is home to a significant proto-industrial economy. Notably in the fields of leather and étamines (a term that encompasses several varieties of fine wool fabrics, the production of which is strictly regulated). The city is also historically rich, as it is located at a crossroads between the Île-de-France, Normandy, and Maine regions. Between 950/970 and 1226, the Rotrou family established a feudal principality whose influence continued to grow: the county of the Perche. Chosen by the Count of Chartres, Blois, and Châteaudun to monitor the Perche, a border with the Duchy of Normandy, Rotroldus (Rotrou I) permanently established the name of this dynasty in this territory, after the construction of a powerful keep, which later became a château (the emblem of the city) that can be visited today.
The town also offers many green spaces rich in biodiversity, and you can follow the greenway that winds along the banks of the Huisne river, for a bucolic walk on foot or by bike. As you can see below, there are many outdoor activities in the region, and nature lovers will be well served. In this article, as always, I offer a small selection of things to do and see if you are coming for a stay in Nogent-le-Rotrou or the Perche region.
How to get here from Paris: TER train line Paris-Le Mans from the Paris Montparnasse station (count on about 1h45).
Also not to be missed: the Notre-Dame Church and the Tomb of the Duke and Duchess of Sully (the tomb is not inside the church but in a monument on one of the sides / unfortunately we could not see it because the gate was strangely not open when we passed by): the Borde pond is a large ornithological reserve in the Perche (unfortunately we didn’t have time to go there either); the city has a place with a pretty reserve of street-art walls (Rhône Street, site of the RUR! graffiti festival) that we discovered a bit by chance.
My advice: go to the Saturday morning market to stock up on local and farm products!
My recommendations: in terms of cheese, you must taste the Trèfle du Perche, a goat cheese (there are several small producers at the market, but we bought ours from Les Chèvres de la Hutte in Longny-au-Perche); farmhouse cider from Damien and Santa Duteil, owner-harvesters; and products made from farmhouse meat from the Ferme des Champs-Romet (including excellent pork rillettes in particular).
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Visiting the Château des Comtes du Perche
This former Château des Comtes du Perche overlooks the town of Nogent-Le-Rotrou and tells over a thousand years of history! The first stone keep, built in the 11th century and 30 meters high, is still visible today. Located on a rocky spur overlooking the Huisne valley, it offered an ideal strategic location to defend the town of Chartres from various neighboring incursions. It was the residence of the Rotrou lords of Nogent, then the Princes of Condé and their court, as well as the Duke of Sully, minister of Henri IV.
Today the site can be visited, and it obtained the “Musée de France” label in May 2019. On the first floor, you will find temporary exhibitions, and the second floor is dedicated to a permanent exhibition on the history of the Perche. You can also visit this historic building with an historioPad tablet and a 3D headset (augmented reality tour) for total immersion (rental fee €2). As a small bonus, for fans, you might recognize the voice of Stéphane Bern for the commentary. This experience allows you to go back in time and dive 360° into the history of the castle with 3D reconstructions of the spaces and decorations of rooms that have since disappeared. For children, the castle also offers a fun-style visit with geocaching.
Visited in 2020 and 2024
Château des Comtes du Perche
28400 Nogent-Le-Rotrou
Open every day except Tuesday
Rates: €4.50 adult / €3.50 reduced / €2.50 children (from 7 to 18 years old) / free on the 1st Sunday of each month
The pro tip: free entry on the 1st Sunday of each month
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Go canoeing on the Huisne river
The Huisne is a wild river 180 km long that has its source in La Perrière and flows into the Sarthe, near Le Mans. It passes through the heart of the Perche and crosses the town of Nogent-le-Rotrou in particular. We took the opportunity to go for a canoe trip on the Huisne with the Club Canoë Kayak Percheron (a non-profit organization under the 1901 law, but which also offers canoe rentals). We did the short 6/7km trip, La Flônerie, which will take you between 1 and 2 hours depending on your pace (we did it in 1h40). They take you to the starting point by car, and then you return to Nogent-le-Rotrou by canoe on the Huisne. It is a very quiet ride because the river is quite uncrowded and also very relaxing.
Tested in 2024
Club Canoë Kayak Percheron
2 rue de la Touche 28400 Nogent-le-Rotrou
Rentals from June to the end of September
Rental rates: La Flônerie €13 for adults and €12 for under 14s; 1/2 day €18 for adults and €16 for under 14s; Full day €25 for adults and €23 for under 14s
Link to the Canoe Kayak Club’s website
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Cycle the Loop n°5 “Manors between Berthe and Ronne”
This bike loop of about 20km starts from Nogent-le-Rotrou and returns to Nogent. Allow about 1h45/2h to complete the loop with electric bikes (be careful, there is a lot of elevation change, but it remains quite easily doable on an electric bike). The name of this loop comes from the fact that the Perche region still has about a hundred manor houses today. They flourished in the area during the Renaissance, a period of reconstruction. Part of the loop follows the Véloscénie, a cycle tourism route that goes from Paris to Mont Saint-Michel and crosses the Perche. This loop is n°5, but be aware that Eure-et-Loir has no less than 27 to explore!
For the rental of electric bikes, we went through Christian Bousquet from Qualit-e Bike. He offers bike rentals, but most importantly, delivery of bikes on-site, which is extremely convenient.
Bike Loop n°5 “Manors between Berthe and Ronne”
Bike rental with Qualit e-Bike
Delivery on-site or possibility to pick up the bikes at Les Etilleux
Rates: electric bikes delivered on-site €30 per half-day, €42 for one day and €55 for 2 days / electric bikes picked up at Les Etilleux €25 per half-day, €35 for one day and €55 for 2 days
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The Festival du Thé Vert (Green Tea Festival)
This free contemporary music festival takes place every year in July in Nogent-le-Rotrou. In 2024, it was the 17th edition, and we were lucky enough to participate. The atmosphere is extremely friendly, and it was an opportunity for us to discover several bands we didn’t know at all, in very different musical styles: Dead Chic, Jive Me…
My tips for enjoying the Festival du Thé Vert in Nogent-le-Rotrou:
- Remember to bring a plastic cup because the Festival charges quite a lot for theirs to encourage more responsible consumption.
- Do not bring bottles, they may be refused at the entrance. However, you can bring a water bottle (made of metal or plastic, but not glass).
- You can bring a camera, no problem, we did.
- On-site, you have to exchange your money for “sucres,” the festival currency that will allow you to buy food and drink (green tea obviously, or the department’s beer, l’Eurélienne, to consume locally).
2024 Edition
The Festival du Thé Vert
Free
July 6 & 7, 2024
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Where to buy local products in Nogent-le-Rotrou? Le Chardon
This small producers’ shop is perfect if you want to do some gourmet shopping and bring back some local products outside of the market. It offers plenty of great products from local producers and organic products (fruits and vegetables, cheeses, herbal teas, juices and drinks, local crafts…). I particularly recommend buying beers from a local organic brewery based in Coudreceau: the microbrewery La Baz.
Le Chardon
1, Place Saint-Pol, 28400 Nogent-le-Rotrou
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Where to eat in Nogent-le-Rotrou? Du Peps
This little place is a gem! If you are passing through Nogent-le-Rotrou, you must absolutely go eat here. The cuisine is creative, made with fresh, local, and seasonal products, and generously seasoned with herbs and spices. The lunch menu changes every day, and the service is also very friendly. The place also functions as a fine grocery store, wine cellar, caterer, and coffee shop. Do not miss their homemade pastries, which are truly delicious!
Tested in 2024
Du Peps
17 Place Saint Pol, 28400 Nogent-le-Rotrou
Open Tuesday to Saturday
Prices: l’Eurélienne beer 33cl €5.50 / wines by the glass between €5.20 and €7 / starters between €8 and €9 / main courses between €18 and €20 / desserts between €4.50 and €8.50
The pro tip: formula from Tuesday to Friday lunch starter + main course or main course + dessert €18 / starter + main course + dessert €22
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Where to stay in Nogent-le-Rotrou? Gîte La Belle Vue
We were the first to stay in this nice gîte located in Nogent-le-Rotrou, which opened its doors in 2024. For now, only the downstairs part with one bedroom is finished, but soon the gîte will also benefit from 4 bedrooms upstairs! The location is good and perfect for enjoying the town and its surroundings. The decor is done with taste and the kitchen is well-equipped for an autonomous stay on-site. We also took advantage of the relatively mild weather to have some apéro/dinner evenings outside on the garden table.
Tested in 2024
Gîte La Belle Vue
14 ruelles des Pierres, 28400 Nogent-le-Rotrou
Rates starting from €95 per night for the lower part of the house (1 bedroom for 2 people)
What to do in the Perche?
To avoid losing my good habits, here is a small selection of activities that you can do and places to visit in the Perche (in normal times, of course, and depending on the evolution of health measures). Of course, you can also just take the time to relax and savor the sweetness of life in Eure-et-Loir…
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Take a slow-cosmetics workshop
Audrey, who has been working with natural cosmetics for 5 years, offers cosmetic workshops to make your own deodorant, hand cream, aftershave… All her products are obviously made with natural ingredients (vegetable oils and butters, floral waters, clays) and in an organic and ecological approach. In addition, these workshops are really accessible to everyone, because even the favorite photographer got into the game and made his own products for himself! Divine&Bio also works in partnership with the “Slow cosmétique” association, which works for more reasonable and ecological cosmetics.
Products made during this workshop: a vegetable hand cream; an aromatherapy roll-on.
A small tip from Audrey for DIY cosmetics: you should always do a test on yourself and wait 48 hours to check that you don’t have any allergies before using them fully.
Tested in 2020
Slow-cosmetics and bespoke workshop
Divine et Bio
Rates: from €28 per adult and €15 per child
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Take a cooking class with Chef Laurent Clément
The Cours Gabriel, whose premises are located in Chartres, has existed for 9 years now. This venue, which offers cooking workshops and classes, was created by the starred chef Laurent Clément, who previously worked at the Grand Monarque restaurant, which I mentioned in my article on Chartres. I must say that taking a workshop with Laurent Clément is a moment of sharing and conviviality that I greatly appreciated. The chef insisted a lot, for example, on the seasonality of products, and during our class, it was in particular the beginning of the scallop season, which we learned to cook in different ways (as tartare and cooked).
For our part, our small group tested a slightly adjusted version of the “market cuisine” class offered by the institution. You normally start by going to the market with the chef (but we skipped this part due to lack of time), then you prepare the meal in his company during a gastronomic morning, before tasting our dishes during a convivial lunch.
My advice: the Cours Gabriel are particularly popular, so I advise you to book well in advance if you wish to participate.
Tested in 2020
Cours Gabriel
“Market” cooking class price: €100 per person (duration 6h) / from 9:00 am to 3:00 pm on Wednesday or Saturday
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Play an escape game in Thirons-Gardais
You know that I really like escape games. I also have an article where I list and recommend the ones I’ve already tested in Paris. If you want to know more about the concept of escape games, I recommend you take a look! The Perche village of Thiron-Gardais, where this escape game is located, is also, for information, on the Véloscénie (this cycle path that connects Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel in 450 km). L’Escape is installed in a historic location, the Grange aux Dîmes of the Domaine de l’Abbaye. This building was built in the 15th century by the monks of the abbey to store the tithe (tax paid in kind to the monks). Right next to the building, you can also visit the pretty abbey church of Thiron-Gardais for those interested.
I had also already tested this escape in February 2020 with the cinema room (which no longer exists now) during our stay at the Gîte La Tour d’Aligre. There are now 3 rooms in this escape game, Secrets of the Monks of the Abbey, Cold Blood Murders, and The Attic. For our part, our seasoned team did the Attic because it is the most difficult room in this escape game. We unfortunately didn’t manage to get out in time, but we were really very close to the end… And above all, we had a lot of fun! After the escape game, don’t hesitate to go for a walk in the thematic gardens of the abbey which are very flowery if the season is favorable.
Tested in 2020
L’Escape
Domaine de l’Abbaye
Grange aux Dîmes, 18 rue de l’Abbaye 28480 Thirons-Gardais
Open all year round, Tuesday to Sunday
Price: from €20 per person on weekdays / from €22 per person on weekends (sliding scale rates according to the number of players)
My favorite addresses in the Perche
As usual, you will find below my selection of favorite addresses in the Perche (accommodation and restaurants) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer and our merry band of bloggers in 2020. If you want more favorite addresses for this destination, do not hesitate to take a look at my other articles on the Perche.
Local products to discover: AOP Perche cider; goat cheeses; local microbrewery beers; Perche Chips; Perche croquelou
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Where to organize an event in the Perche? Les Communs du Perche
This place is simply magical! Les Communs du Perche is an estate that hosts seminars, weddings, and family events. It is entirely privatized for unique and exclusive moments. The hosts, Sophie and Arnaud, have renovated this charming architectural ensemble to offer their clientele a confidential and high-end residence with refined decor. The estate is located in the heart of the village of Charbonnières and right in front of the Château de Charbonnières, built in 1472.
The estate includes: a main residence with a living room (fireplace corner, bar and billiards), dining room and kitchen; a separate relaxation area with an indoor pool and hammam; a main building with 18 double bedrooms; a meeting room; a large garden with several different areas.
We also had the chance to experience a privileged evening with a private and intimate acoustic concert by the singer Valentine Lambert, whose folk musical repertoire I really enjoyed (see photos below).
Tested in 2020
Les Communs du Perche
7 bis rue du Château 28 330 Charbonnières
Rates and quotes on request
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Where to eat in the Perche? L’Auberge de l’Abbaye
This restaurant (which is also a hotel) is located behind the Abbey of Thiron-Gardais, which I mentioned in the previous chapter. The family inn is run by two brothers, Simon and Rémi. Rémi offers creative cuisine at the Auberge restaurant, which we were able to test. For our part, we were lucky enough to have the chef come to prepare a dinner for us directly at Les Communs du Perche, where we were staying. Indeed, the restaurant also acts as a caterer, and this is a service they offer if needed. We were also treated to a full meal with organic Perche cider (the one from Les Vergers du Theuil), which is absolutely delicious!
On the menu: beet salad with smoked tuna; guinea fowl supreme and cabbage; pear poached in chocolate.
Tested in 2020
Auberge de l’Abbaye
15 Rue du Commerce, 28480 Thiron-Gardais
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Where to have a local lunch? Restaurant Le Perch’oir
This restaurant opened its doors quite recently in 2020. Its concept is to offer mainly local short-circuit products and to help people discover the region through authentic cuisine inspired by the Perche and its terroir. In addition, at the back of the restaurant, you will discover a magnificent view of the surrounding countryside! I particularly recommend testing the beer from a local micro-brewery, the BAZ, or for a non-alcoholic drink, the Pétill’Corvésien, a sparkling apple juice from the Vergers du Theuil.
To taste: poached egg in a brioche with grilled bacon; white chocolate millefeuille, praline caramel and peanut praline for dessert.
Tested in 2020
Restaurant Le Perch’oir
4, bis route de Thiron Gardais 28 480 Argenvilliers
Open from Wednesday lunch to Sunday lunch + Friday and Saturday evening
Thursday evening: wine bar / beer bar / platters
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Thanks to Eure-et-Loir Tourisme, to Perche Tourisme and to the aiRPur agency for this welcome. And thanks also to my travel buddies in 2020 for their good humor (don’t hesitate to take a look at their articles on Eure-et-Loir): le Blog de Lili, Voyageurs Français, Culturez-Vous, Paris la Douce and Poulette Blog.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover Eure-et-Loir as well as the Perche, and if you also have your favorite addresses and tips for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization is mandatory before any use
