Here is my third and final stage of this Explorers’ Route that I trekked with my favorite photographer and my dad (remember, I explained everything in a previous article) last year. After the Laurentians and the province of Abitibi-Témiscamingue, I am sharing my time in the Outaouais, in the heart of Quebec, the Francophone bastion of North America.
During our time in the Outaouais, the fall foliage season, also called “Indian summer” by Quebecers, had already begun, and it was a feast for the eyes. Generally, it is during the latter part of September or early October that the leaves on the trees begin to change color to take on warm shades (red, orange, yellow…). This coloration varies depending on the tree species and also the geographical location.
This region in the far west of Quebec was for a long time the stronghold of trappers and explorers who glided in bark canoes on the waters of the Ottawa River (whose name comes from an indigenous tribe, by the way). It was also a region with intensive logging, being nicknamed “the forest reserve of Great Britain.” It served as an important meeting place between the ancient indigenous peoples who lived on these lands and the first French and English-speaking explorers.
For practical information, the heart of the region is less than a 2-hour drive from Montreal, making it very accessible. As in previous articles, I have included a map below so you can visualize our itinerary and the different stops on our road trip.
[rtoc_mokuji title="" title_display="" heading="h3" list_h2_type="" list_h3_type="" display="" frame_design="" animation=""]Table of Contents
Stage 1: Gatineau, Outaouais
>This is the Quebec side of the greater Ottawa region, including its old historic district of Aylmer where we stayed, which features many old houses. But Gatineau is also the 4th largest city in Quebec! The city of Gatineau is the neighbor of the capital, Ottawa, separated only by the Ottawa River (a tributary of the St. Lawrence River), which forms the natural border between Quebec and Ontario for several kilometers. For your information, it is also the longest river in Quebec and one of the most beautiful waterways in the country.
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Discovering Gatineau Park
>Within reach of Gatineau’s city center, you can easily enjoy the 361 km2 of hills and forests offered by the park for hiking, cycling, picnicking, or traveling back in time at the Mackenzie-King Estate (231 hectares). This jewel of the park allows for a trip back to the 19th century on the estate of the former Canadian Prime Minister William Lyon Mackenzie King, who bequeathed it to the Canadian people upon his death. This green oasis is easily accessible from the city (only a 15-minute drive), and Outaouais residents love to go there to recharge.
At the beginning of your trip, you must go to the Visitor Center to get a map and pay your vehicle access fee if it is summer and you want to visit certain areas ($12 per car from mid-June to early September for beaches, and $12 per car for the Mackenzie-King Estate from mid-May to the end of October). If you pass by the Visitor Center, I also advise you to take the opportunity to visit the exhibition on the park’s ecosystems (free).
A must-see:
- The meromictic Pink Lake, which is of rare beauty and is an exceptional protected environment (swimming is prohibited). I advise you to walk around the lake by following the hiking and interpretation trail (2.3 km).
- To have a great view of the region, I advise you to stop by car at the Champlain Lookout.
Gatineau Park 33, Scott Road, Chelsea Park access is free all year / in summer, there are parking fees at beaches and at the Mackenzie-King Estate Good to know: there are free NCC shuttles to get into the park from Ottawa or Gatineau in October, during the 3 weekends of the Fall Festival
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Where to eat near the park? Chelsea Pub
>This institution is the perfect place to enjoy a good beer before or after your walk in the park, with this 140-year-old address where woodwork, cocktails, conviviality, and food are the order of the day!
To try: house beers; forest beef ravioli with wild mushrooms, cream, bacon, hazelnuts, and prosciutto crisps; house burgers.
The little extra: a lovely terrace for sunny days (where we were lucky enough to be able to have lunch that day!)
Chelsea Pub 238, Old Chelsea Road, Chelsea (Quebec), J9B 1J3 Canada open Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 12 am / Saturday 11 am to 12 am / Sunday 11 am to 11 pm
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Visiting the Canadian Museum of History
>This museum is housed in a contemporary building, located on the banks of the Ottawa River, and is the work of indigenous architect Douglas Cardinal. Canada’s national museum of history explores the country’s rich cultural heritage, including the achievements of the First Peoples. The museum houses a magnificent collection dedicated to the First Peoples of Canada, with the world’s largest collection of totem poles, which is displayed in the majestic Grand Hall.
You dive into 20,000 years of human adventure in Canada, and the museum offers a magnificent view of the Canadian Parliament in Ottawa, located on the other side of the river. I must say that I particularly love this museum, which I visited during my first trip to Quebec in 2010. I am also very admiring of the Quebec museography, which I find to be well ahead of what we do in France. In short, it is a visit that I find absolutely essential if you are passing through the region! The museum recently opened a new section that highlights Canadian history over 15,000 years old, with an iconic exhibition where witnesses from the past tell a story that reflects the immense and contrasting territory. Through authentic artifacts and pivotal moments in history, we discover events, changes, and characters that shaped the country.
Canadian Museum of History 100, Laurier Street, Gatineau, K1A 0M8 open daily except December 25th and between January 6 and January 10, 2020 Admission: $20 for adults / $16 for students / $12 for children / + $3 to follow a guided tour The tip: admission is free for everyone on Thursdays after 5 pm / on Canada Day (July 1st) / on Remembrance Day (November 11)
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Where to stay in Gatineau? Hôtel British
>This historic establishment reopened recently, just the year before our visit. It was in 1834 that Irishman Robert Conroy built this hotel. We were lucky enough to stay in one of the hotel’s two magnificent Junior Suites (The Conroy – 302), which, I must say, was extremely spacious (165 m2!!!!). In addition, this suite is located under the eaves of the hotel, giving it enormous charm with its exposed beams. And the icing on the cake is that from the suite windows, you can have a panoramic view of the Old Aylmer Heritage Square as well as the Ottawa River.
Inside, you will also find a restaurant and a fairly authentic pub (which we unfortunately didn’t have the opportunity to test). To have breakfast, you must cross the square and go to the building opposite, at Café British, which serves coffee and pastries.
My advice: take advantage of your free time to walk on the main street of the Old Aylmer sector. Walk along the street towards the river to arrive at the Aylmer marina with its large beach and many sailboats.
Hôtel British 71, Principale Street, Gatineau, J9H 3L6
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Where to dine in Gatineau near the hotel? Resto-bistro l’Aubergiste
>This gastronomic pub offers reinvented recipes with a contemporary touch in a very pleasant place in the Aylmer district. The menu consists of 13 small appetizers and a selection of main dishes on the blackboard. In any case, this is the address where we undoubtedly ate the best poutine of this stay in Quebec! I therefore advise you to try their famous Poutine Aubergiste ($18). Their Fish and Chips ($18) is not bad either if you want to try something else.
Resto-bistro l'Aubergiste 58, Principale Street, Gatineau (Quebec), J9H 3L5 Canada Price: dishes between $17.50 and $33
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Stage 2: Ottawa, Ontario
>The administrative capital of Canada (and has been since 1857) is located in the province of Ontario, and the official language is therefore English (even if almost everyone speaks French there as well). Last year when we went, the city, which gets its name from an Algonquin word meaning “trade,” was celebrating the 150th anniversary of Confederation.
Also, don’t hesitate to go for a walk along the Rideau Canal, which is a historic waterway, where you can see the locks located at the foot of Parliament Hill. The Rideau Canal, a UNESCO World Heritage site, turns into an ice rink in winter.
My little tip: Go take a photo in front of the giant OTTAWA letters. These were part of the Inspiration Village (a 2017 initiative by Ottawa as part of Canada’s 150th anniversary) and they are now permanently installed in the ByWard Market district (which I talk about below), on York Street, near Sussex Drive.
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Visiting the Centre Block of Canada’s Parliament
>Parliament has several buildings, and they are all located at the top of Parliament Hill, which overlooks the Ottawa River. The Centennial Flame located on the lawn facing the Center Block was lit in 1967 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Canadian Confederation.
The Parliament buildings are the workplace of the Federal Government of Canada. Built between 1859 and 1927 on a promontory filled with trees overlooking the Ottawa River, the Parliament buildings are neo-Gothic and Gothic structures with copper-covered roofs. The Library of Parliament (the only original part that survived the catastrophic fire of 1916) has been restored and is particularly sumptuous (see photo below).
The venue offers daily free guided tours in several languages (including French, of course) of the main Parliament building. It’s an opportunity to get a glimpse of what happens in the House of Commons and the Senate and try to understand the functioning of Canadian democracy a little bit. At the end of the tour, you can also climb to the very top of the building’s main tower to have a great view of the surroundings.
Unfortunately, since January 2019, renovation work on the Center Block of Canada’s Parliament has begun and will continue for ten years, and what I am showing you in the photos below is unfortunately no longer visitable for the moment. However, during the closure of the Center Block, guided tours of Parliament are offered at two new locations: the West Block, the temporary residence of the House of Commons, and the Government Conference Center, the temporary residence of the Senate. Summer tours of the East Block also continue during this period.
Parliament of Canada 90 Wellington Street Ottawa Operation: tickets are distributed on a first-come, first-served basis at 90 Wellington Street (opposite Parliament Hill) / you can also reserve your tickets online for more guaranteed space
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Visiting the National Gallery of Canada
>This museum presents the best of visual art in Canada and is housed in a contemporary building created by architect Moshe Safdie in the heart of Canada’s capital. In front of the museum, there is also one of Louise Bourgeois’ famous spiders. I particularly advise you to see the new Canadian and Indigenous art galleries, which were recently opened and are particularly interesting.
My advice: After visiting the museum, go to the back of it to admire the view of Ottawa from Nepean Point.
This vantage point offers a spectacular panoramic view of Ottawa and Gatineau. You will see the French explorer, Samuel de Champlain, holding a navigation instrument, called an astrolabe, upside down because the sculptor did not know how the instrument was supposed to be used. You will also see the work ‘One Hundred Foot Line’ by contemporary artist Roxy Paine.
National Gallery of Canada 380, Sussex Drive open from 9:30 am to 6:00 pm, open until 8:00 pm on Thursdays
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Exploring the ByWard Market district
>For over 200 years, the ByWard Market district has welcomed artisans, farmers, and craft merchants who sell their creations and goods year-round. You will also find many cafes, restaurants, and pubs. This market, founded in 1826 by Lieutenant-Colonel John By, is one of Canada’s largest and oldest public markets. It is therefore the perfect place for a quick lunch or an impromptu drink. It will also be an opportunity to do some “magasinage,” the Quebec term to replace ‘shopping,’ which sounds too English for our cousins across the Atlantic.
Not to be missed: Visit the ByWard Market Building, which features a wide variety of food vendors, artisans, and shops, including the very popular “Obama Cookies” from Moulin de Provence. While you are in the building, take a look at the large papier-mâché sculpture hanging from the ceiling. This sculpture is titled “McClintock’s Dream” and tells the story of a lumberjack asleep in a bush, dreaming of all the colors found in the ByWard Market.
ByWard Market Open daily
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Where to dine in Ottawa? Social Restaurant & Lounge
>Social Restaurant features a large bar with excellent cocktails and a great wine selection. This restaurant is known for its progressive Canadian cuisine, inspired by local farmers and Canadian multiculturalism. In any case, it is an excellent address to savor refined and high-quality cuisine in a trendy and chic setting.
Social Restaurant & Lounge 537, Sussex Drive Price: Lunch menu starting at $32 / Dinner menu starting at $62
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Where to sleep in Ottawa? Hôtel Le Germain Ottawa
>This upscale hotel opened in May 2018 and combines a multi-use facility with rooms, as well as a theater and an art gallery. The establishment offers a modern and arty design, combined with attentive hospitality and a very high level of service quality. I really liked the layout of our room, with its large bay window overlooking the city and perfect soundproofing, which meant we were not bothered at all by outside noise. As for the bedding, again, it was very high-end, nothing to complain about.
Positive point: the breakfast was really very good with a nice variety of products and a very beautiful dining area there as well.
Hôtel Le Germain Ottawa 30, Daly Avenue Price: classic rooms starting at $188
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Stage 3: Montebello and its surroundings, Outaouais
>The picturesque village of Montebello offers a quantity of tourist offers, and even if we only stayed there for a short time, I think there is enough material to spend a few more days there than we did. The origin of the municipality (founded in 1878) comes from the Papineau family who settled their estate there in the 19th century.
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Where to sleep? Fairmont Le Château Montebello
>This luxury hotel in the shape of a six-pointed star is famous throughout Quebec and is also the largest log construction in the world! Built in 1930 with red cedar logs in just 3 months, this architectural gem was once a very exclusive private club. Rich in history, the Château now has 211 rooms, a gourmet table, a spa, a marina, and numerous indoor and outdoor activities, including a golf club. In short, this resort is quite impressive and also has large grounds around the main building.
In the center of the hotel stands the impressive large central six-sided fireplace, which is really worth a look! And the only thing you want to do is sit as close as possible to the fireplace in one of the very comfortable armchairs arranged all around.
As for breakfast, the buffet is very hearty and the room is located downstairs in the hotel restaurant. I also took the opportunity to have a blueberry pancake cure because I love them!
The little extra: the spa with its large pool and jacuzzi, accessible to hotel guests
Fairmont Le Château Montebello 392, Notre-Dame Street, Montebello (Quebec), J0V 1L0 Canada
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Where to have lunch in Montebello? Snack et Délices Montebello
>This address for a quick bite features local products from Montebello and the region. Homemade fries, classic burgers, poutines, and hot dogs with artisanal sausage served with homemade condiments. It is also a dairy bar that offers a wide variety of frozen desserts.
To try: burgers (with or without poutine, depending on your appetite); extremely strange Quebec sodas that taste super chemical (we didn’t like them too much, but let’s say it was for the fun of the experience).
Snack et Délices Montebello 497 Notre-Dame Street, Montebello, QC J0V 1L0, Canada
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Where to dine in Montebello? Bistro Montebello
>The Bistro Montebello offers a family-style menu combining local products with pub-style cuisine. Known for its wood-fired pizzas, the poutines and meats are also to be tried!
To try: the brie fondant casserole with beer and maple (well, obviously for lightness, we’ll skip that one) for $15; local beers from Brasseurs de Montebello ($5 for half).
Bistro Montebello 570, Notre-Dame Street, Montebello (Quebec), J0V 1L0 Canada
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Visiting Parc Oméga + short video
>In this park, you can discover animals in freedom from your car along 15 km of winding roads in an 890-hectare park where hills, lakes, and wide-open spaces follow one another. This Canadian safari is done in your car, and you can only leave it in certain specific areas. Likewise, you cannot feed the animals with just anything, but bags of carrots are on sale at the reception.
Here is also a short video made by the favorite photographer, which takes you with us during our visit to Parc Oméga in Montebello.
It’s a unique formula in Quebec that allows you to discover, throughout the seasons, animal species living in semi-freedom in their natural habitat. Which is obviously always less bothersome than visiting a zoo with animals locked in small spaces. For our part, we were lucky enough to tour the park in one of the caged carts that the park offers for rent (but there are very few available). This allows you to be closer to the animals while still keeping quite a bit of security. In addition, you finally feel like it’s you who are in a cage in the middle of animals roaming free, which is an unusual situation, it must be admitted.
For example, in the photo below, you might think the deer is in a cage, while in fact, it’s quite the opposite: we are in the cage, and he is approaching curiously! You can also walk around a lake in the middle of white-tailed deer (extremely fond of carrots, as you could see in the video) and beavers in the zone called “First Nations Land.”
In the park, we saw during our visit during the Canadian autumn: foxes, bears, bison, wolves, elk, wild boars (a lot!), deer…
My advice: I advise you to look at the schedule of events for the day that you will be given upon arrival in order to plan your visit accordingly.
At the end or at the beginning of your visit, do not hesitate to go to the Park House for information, to eat, buy some souvenirs, or take some silly photos (see below).
Parc Oméga 399, Route 323 North, Montebello, J0V 1L0 Autumn rates: $28.70 for adults / $10.44 for 2 to 5 years old / $20 for 6 to 15 years old / $26.09 for seniors
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Thanks again to Québec Original for this opportunity and to the Outaouais region, as well as to the city of Ottawa for welcoming us and for this great program!
I hope that with all this I will have made you want to discover or rediscover Quebec and the Outaouais region, and if you also have your tips for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments!
Find all my articles on Quebec below
(3 trips in 2010, 2013, and 2018):
⇒ All my articles on Quebec
GENERAL INFORMATION ON QUEBEC
⇒ Quebec: practical info, how to get there, general info about Montreal
MY STAGES IN QUEBEC
⇒ The Gaspé Peninsula
⇒ Montreal
⇒ Quebec City
⇒ The Laurentians
⇒ Abitibi-Témiscamingue
⇒ The Outaouais
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Melle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
