I visited the city of Metz for the first time in 2012, stopping by on my way to Belgium for a memorable road trip. Back then, the city was an open-air construction site due to the building of the future tramway. And yet, despite all that chaos, the city’s charm had already struck me. In 2021, almost a decade later, I went back there with my favorite photographer for a few days’ getaway in the prefecture of the Moselle department. In this region formerly known as Lorraine and now called Grand-Est.
Metz is a major metropolis in the heart of Europe, being close to Luxembourg as well as the border with Germany. It is very easily accessible from Paris by train (around 1h30 by TGV, train booking available with Omio from Paris Est station). In this article, I am sharing a little city guide to visit Metz with a selection of ideas for visits and things/places to see, as well as my tried-and-approved favorite addresses, as I usually do.
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Table of Contents
My favorite addresses in Metz
As usual, you will find below my selection of great addresses in Metz (a magnificent hotel and several restaurants) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with my favorite photographer. These addresses often offer the chance to discover local products and a few regional specialties to try if you come to Moselle. The city is apparently also famous for housing numerous quality small restaurants, and the few experiences we had certainly point in that direction…
A few local specialties (and to bring back some local products, we were advised to go to the city’s covered market – Marché Couvert) : mirabelle plums (a major Lorraine specialty featured in all sorts of ways), Moselle wines…
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Where to stay in Metz? Hôtel MGallery La Citadelle Metz
This stunning 4-star hotel, set in a former 16th-century military building constructed from Jaumont stone, is an absolute gem! This former army pantry of the king’s forces has been classified as a historic monument since 1969, and it was returned to civilian life and transformed into a 4-star hotel in 2005 under the name: La Citadelle. The setting of the hotel, now MGallery La Citadelle Metz, is therefore superb with wonderfully spacious rooms. In terms of decor, the hotel is decidedly modern, featuring works by the Belgian artist Denis Meyers throughout the building—whose project and work I had discovered in 2016 in Brussels. This urban art exhibition is the prelude to many others that will follow every 6 months in the heart of the hotel.
Another major positive point if you are coming to Metz by train is that the hotel is located just 5 minutes from the station, which is extremely convenient. And finally, a very important point for an establishment of this standing, the welcome is exceptionally pleasant, while remaining friendly and warm.
The MGallery La Citadelle Metz has 68 rooms and suites, recently redecorated in anthracite and pearl gray tones conducive to sleep, with white bathrooms. Our suite, located on the 3rd and top floor, had a magnificent view of Square Giraud in front of the hotel, and the king-size bedding was truly very comfortable. We had a large 65 m2 space featuring a comfortable lounge-library-boudoir area, as well as the bedroom corner with the bed and a large screen television.
Another positive point to note (which is sometimes lacking in hotels) is that there were plenty of power outlets in the room to plug in our electronic equipment. With all the gear each of us carries around (phones, cameras, batteries, etc.), we often struggle to plug everything in, which was not the case this time. And finally, as you will see in the photos below, we couldn’t resist doing a series of jumps on the bed—our trademark…
As for breakfast, I must say it’s flawless, featuring mostly local products and homemade items (to-die-for homemade spread, mirabelle tart, guacamole, very successful scrambled eggs…), in short, top-tier quality which is rare enough to be highlighted! And by the way, the bread offered at the hotel comes from Comptoir Marly (another address by the La Citadelle group) which I talk about a bit further down.
Hôtel MGallery La Citadelle Metz
5 avenue Ney 57000 Metz
Good deal tip: free Wi-Fi accessible throughout the hotel; a games and reading corner with a pool table and books available; in the hotel lobby, bikes are accessible and free to borrow for hotel guests to ride around Metz and its surroundings!
Room rates: starting from 129 € depending on the season and room category / offer starting from 249 € for a double room with breakfast and a food and wine pairing dinner at La Réserve restaurant
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Where to have a gourmet dinner in Metz? La Réserve
This restaurant is located inside the MGallery La Citadelle hotel I just told you about, where we stayed during our getaway in Metz. Renamed La Réserve, a nod to the Citadelle’s former provisions storehouse, it underwent a renovation in 2021. Chef Aurélien Person is passionate, and his cooking is truly delicious! Lorraine cuisine takes center stage with new recipes born straight from the chef’s imagination, who works closely with regional producers around a seasonal menu that changes every 4 to 5 weeks. Everything is balanced and flavorful, and we were particularly blown away by his pan-seared foie gras with pot-au-feu consommé and crunchy vegetables, and then the signature chocolate dessert by pastry chef Quentin Nollez is also killer!
On the wine side, the establishment has a well-stocked cellar of crus from all origins as well as, of course, wines from the Alsace-Lorraine region which we were delighted to discover. I also recommend ending your meal with a Mirabelle de Lorraine eau-de-vie from Mélanie if you want to finish on a local note. In short, a wonderful address to try if you are passing through Metz, even if you are not staying at the hotel.
What we tasted during our meal:
- La Citadelle Menu at 40 € (starter + main + dessert): perfect egg from Neufchef, butternut squash with a bresaola condiment; confit veal medallion, vegetable fricassee, Pinot Noir jus; mont blanc, orange marmalade with Christmas spices, blood orange sorbet.
- La Réserve Menu, chef’s inspiration at 65 € (starter + 2 mains + dessert) : pan-seared foie gras, pot-au-feu consommé, crunchy vegetables (a killer!); semi-cooked red tuna, Asian-style wok; venison fillet, beetroot in textures, grand veneur sauce (another favorite); intense chocolate cream, cookie crumble with seeds, coffee whipped cream, cappuccino ice cream (the house’s signature dessert).
Restaurant La Réserve
5 avenue Ney 57000 Metz
open 7 days a week for breakfast, from 12:00 to 14:00 for lunch and from 19:00 to 22:00 for dinner
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Where to eat/buy great cakes around Metz? Le Comptoir Marly (closed)
This address (which also belongs to the La Citadelle group) located on the outskirts of Metz in the town of Marly is set in a retail park, yet it conceals a quality establishment that serves as both a restaurant (sit-down lunch service; available for private events; menu renewed every 4 to 5 weeks), a caterer, and a wine shop!
Here you will find pastry chef Cédric Schwartzenberger‘s delicious cakes. On the menu: lemon tart, passion fruit square, grand-mother’s chocolate mousse, chocolate-coconut custard, and an all-chocolate “skull”; his famous mirabelle, coffee, and caramel cream puffs are renowned for miles around (and after tasting them, I understand why, they are seriously amazing!!!).
Le Comptoir Marly
457 avenue Belle Fontaine 57155 Marly
open from 11:00 to 19:00
Lunch served at table from Monday to FridayThe good deal tip: daily menu starter + main + dessert at 16.90 €
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Where to have lunch in Metz? Restaurant La Fleure de Ly
Nestled in a pretty little alleyway between the cathedral and the Moselle river, this restaurant is set in a 16th-century mansion. The decor is subdued and classy, and the plates feature traditional bistro cuisine with a creative and colorful twist, orchestrated by chef Nicolas Rapenne.
Our menu: endive velouté, smoked bacon espuma, and grilled pork belly; pear, parsnip, and Bleu d’Auvergne crumble; pork cheeks braised in beer and gingerbread with a red cabbage mousseline and spätzle; roasted cod loin, chorizo crust with a citrus butternut squash emulsion; coconut, mango, and passion fruit entremets with vanilla ice cream; Baileys verrine, 70% chocolate, and coffee ice cream.
Local wine to try: a Côte de Toul featuring a local grape variety of Moselle wines, Auxerrois.
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Fie>Restaurant La Fleure de Ly
5 rue des Piques, 57000 MetzClosed Sunday evenings
Market menu at 31 €: starter + main + dessert
The tip: a welcome drink or 1 free aperitif included with the City Pass Metz (see below in the section “What to see, what to do in Metz?”)
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Where to eat Italian food in Metz? Martina Ristorante
This new address with Italian flavors recently opened in the heart of the station district in Metz. In the kitchen, you’ll find an Italian chef originally from Rome who serves up his family recipes. The Italian products used are also carefully sourced with a quality selection, and you can taste it in every dish. As for the decor, there’s a rather cozy atmosphere (special mention for the little benches by the windows), making it the ideal spot for a simple yet flavorful lunch.
To try: for starter, Polpette al pomodoro, little golden meatballs simmered in an Italian tomato sauce (7.90 €); the chef’s various pastas (fettucine al ragù or fettucine with porcini mushrooms); for dessert, the traditional tiramisu (6.50 €); the restaurant’s fine selection of Italian wines.
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Fie>Martina Ristorante
5 rue François de Curel 57000 Metz
Open for lunch only and available for private evening events
Pasta prices: between 13.50 € and 16.90 €
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Where to eat fish in Metz? Le Méditerranée (closed)
During my visit to Metz in 2012, my parents and I had lunch (upon Gilles Pudlowski‘s recommendations) at the Le Méditerranée restaurant, where we treated ourselves to fish and succulent desserts, topped off with a very warm welcome—which never hurts—all for the modest sum of 14.90 € for the set lunch menu (what a steal!). Unfortunately, this restaurant has since closed its doors, but I wanted to keep a trace of our visit to this place right here.
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Fie>Restaurant Le Méditerranée
22 Pl. de Chambre, 57000 Metz
Establishment now closed and replaced by the restaurant Mamie M’a Dit
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What to see, what to do in Metz?
Visiting Metz means discovering the city’s long history, from its Gallo-Roman origins, through its status as an episcopal city in the Middle Ages, to its incorporation into the German Empire after the war of 1870, and then its return to France in 1918 (if we overlook a second German annexation from 1940 to 1944). In short, it boasts a rich history with a remarkably well-preserved and particularly interesting heritage to discover! The city of Metz is also fascinating from an architectural standpoint, having served as an architectural laboratory since the 19th century. It is equally a city deeply rooted in art and culture.
Situated between the Moselle and the Seille rivers, Metz is a city of water and gardens where it’s lovely to take walks on foot along its canals or quays. The city is also very green, boasting 580 ha of green spaces (making it the 3rd greenest city in France!) and 50km of walking paths accessible to locals and visiting tourists alike (though admittedly it’s much nicer in good weather than in winter, but still…).
Below, I’ll tell you about a few places to visit in Metz, but don’t hesitate to also check out landmarks like the Porte des Allemands—a small, independent medieval castle and highly emblematic city monument located at the eastern entrance of Metz—its ensemble of 18th-century French squares, or the Saint Maximin Church, which houses stained glass windows created in 1962 from sketches by Jean Cocteau.
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Fie>The tip: the City Pass, which gives you, for 13.50 €, 1 admission to the Centre Pompidou-Metz + 1 Visi Pass’ ticket for unlimited travel on the LE MET’ network for 1 day + 1 audio-guided tour of Metz + discounts at plenty of places in Metz (restaurants, accommodations, local producers, recreational and sports activities…).
Metz Tourist Office
2 place d’Armes 57007 Metz
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Visiting Saint-Etienne Cathedral
Of course, I simply had to take a tour of the Gothic Saint-Etienne Cathedral. With its vaulted ceiling height of 42 meters, it is one of the highest in France alongside Beauvais and Amiens. The place did not disappoint, and the building fully lives up to its reputation (pun intended). Nicknamed “God’s Lantern”, the cathedral towers over the city and treats visitors to magnificent stained glass windows (over 6,500 m2!) crafted from the 13th to the 20th century by renowned artists (including Chagall). Incidentally, the cathedral celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2021!
The square surrounding the building is also very pretty and houses the Tourist Office, which can come in handy if you’re looking for information on touring the city.
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Fie>Saint-Etienne Cathedral
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Visiting the Musée de la Cour d’Or
Located on Sainte-Croix hill, this institution is the fine arts museum of the city of Metz. Its name, “La Cour d’Or”, is a reference to the palace of the kings of Austrasia, whose site it currently occupies. It is also extremely vast, spanning about 5,000 m2 of exhibition space (allow several hours to complete the entire route), and its antique collection (particularly the Gallo-Roman period, where you can see the remains of the thermal baths along the route) is exceptionally rich. It’s the perfect opportunity to discover the ancient past of the city of Metz, known back then as Divodurum. The medieval collection is equally outstanding, featuring incredible 13th-century painted bestiary ceilings.
And to top it all off, the museum is entirely free, which is quite rare for a museum of this caliber! If you happen to pass through Metz, you have zero excuse not to dedicate a few hours to discovering the treasures of this collection.
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Fie>Musée de la Cour d’Or
2 rue du Haut Poirier, Metz
Free admission for everyone, all year round
The tip: the museum also regularly organizes free guided tours
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Visiting FRAC Lorraine (Regional Contemporary Art Fund)
FRAC Lorraine is housed in a 12th-century mansion, Hôtel St Livier, once again situated on Sainte-Croix hill. The venue hosts temporary exhibitions by contemporary artists and artistic performances, and also welcomes artists-in-residence. There were 3 exhibitions running during our visit: an exhibition by Hanne Lippard, a Norwegian artist, centered around language; a “Jardin in progress” installation by Liliana Motta, a botanist artist working for the rehabilitation of “foreign plants”; and an exhibition by local artist Paul Heintz.
As is often the case with contemporary art, it can be a bit challenging to approach at times, but since admission is free, I can only encourage you to drop by and engage with the artists’ visions, as well as to enjoy the building itself, which is well worth the detour.
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Fie>Frac Lolo – FRAC Lorraine (Regional Contemporary Art Fund)
1 bis rue des Trinitaires 57000 Metz
Open Tuesday to Friday from 2:00 PM to 6:00 PM and on Saturdays and Sundays from 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM
Open access and free for everyone
The tip: a free poster of the current exhibition included with the City Pass Metz
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Visiting the Centre Pompidou Metz
If you’re passing through Metz, you simply cannot miss visiting the Centre Pompidou Metz, an extension of the Centre Pompidou in Paris. This modern and contemporary art center offers world-class temporary exhibitions year-round (temporary only, there are no permanent collections here), showcasing works from the Centre Pompidou’s own collection as well as from other museums, galleries, and collectors around the globe. The building itself is also well worth the detour; it was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban and his French partner Jean de Gastines, who envisioned it covered with a Chinese-style hat.
During my visit in 2012, I saw an exhibition centered around the cultural production of the year 1917. The exhibition’s theme certainly isn’t the most joyful, but how could it be otherwise with such a delicate subject? I found it extremely well-built, documented, and presented. A stellar example of its kind, which perhaps explains the slightly high price of the admission ticket (7 €, with no reduced rate, though free entry applies under certain criteria, see below).
During our visit in November 2021, we discovered (on its very last day, I believe), the stunning exhibition “Face à Arcimboldo“, exploring the universe of Giuseppe Arcimboldo, a unique and mysterious 16th-century artist whose works were placed in dialogue with Renaissance masters as well as contemporary artists like Francis Bacon, Magritte, Picasso, and Cindy Sherman.
Indeed, this artist—best known for his portraits blending the plant, animal, and mineral worlds as masterpieces of Mannerism—has inspired many others, and the Surrealists had already recognized Arcimboldo as a source of inspiration. You get to discover or rediscover Arcimboldo‘s work as viewed, envisioned, and fantasized by the 135 artists featured in the exhibition. Sadly, it came to a close on November 22, 2021.
We also visited the exhibition “Ecrire, c’est dessiner” (Writing is Drawing), conceived during a conversation with poet and artist Etel Adnan. This exhibition explores our fascination with the richness of languages and their written forms, and I must say we found it thoroughly fascinating. You can check it out at the Centre Pompidou Metz until February 21, 2022.
Another exhibition we caught during this visit was dedicated to the Taipei Biennial (Taiwan) titled “You and I Don’t Live on the Same Planet”, focusing on ecological issues and related conflicts. You can catch this exhibition until April 4, 2022.
Centre Pompidou Metz
1 parvis des Droits de l’Homme, 57000 Metz
Open Wednesday to Monday from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, and until 7:00 PM on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays
Ticket prices vary depending on the number of exhibition spaces open on the day of your visit: 7€ / 10€ / 12€
Free entry: under 26 / students / job seekers and RSA beneficiaries
Good deal tip : Right now at Centre Pompidou-Metz, don’t miss the 2026 season featuring retrospectives dedicated to Louise Nevelson (until August 31, 2026) and François Morellet (until September 28, 2026), Marina Abramović‘s interactive installation (until November 23, 2026), and the “Un Dimanche sans fin” exhibition with Maurizio Cattelan (until February 1, 2027).
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Exploring the Imperial Quarter around the Central Station
Around the central station—an imposing Neo-Romanesque building (well worth seeing, and if you arrive by train, be sure to linger a bit) commissioned by Wilhelm II and erected by Jürgen during the city’s German period—you’ll also find other remarkable buildings such as the post office, Place Mondon, and the villas along Avenue Foch, which reinterpret Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles alongside Art Deco and Jugendstil. This neighborhood is truly an exceptional illustration of late 19th- and early 20th-century Germanic urban planning.
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Checking out the Christmas markets in winter
Starting in November, the city sets up Christmas markets across 5 of its squares featuring chalets, gourmet and artisanal products, a 55-meter-high Ferris wheel at the foot of the cathedral on Place d’Armes J-F Blondel to admire Metz from above (we took a little spin on it ourselves!), an ice rink, the Lantern Trail (which unfortunately wasn’t set up yet when we visited)… It’s also the perfect chance to sip some traditional mulled wine to warm up and soak in a true Christmas atmosphere.
During the 2021 edition, each square had its own theme: gourmet square, traditional villages, lights seen from the sky with the Ferris wheel, color and flavor square, and a mix of ice and lights. One evening, we took advantage of this to grab a bite at the gourmet market set up on Place de la Comédie. We enjoyed a little flammekueche at the O’Flamme chalet paired with a Christmas beer, which was really lovely.
Metz Christmas Markets
open Monday to Saturday from 9 AM to 7 PM / Sunday and public holidays from 10 AM to 4 PM
from late November to late December every year
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Thank you to MGallery La Citadelle Metz, Corinne, and Inspire Metz for the wonderful welcome.
I hope all of this makes you want to discover Metz, and if you also have your favorite spots and tips for this destination, feel free to share them in the comments below!
Find all my articles about the Grand-Est region below:
⇒ All my articles about the Grand-Est
MY ARTICLES ABOUT THE GRAND EST
⇒ L’Aube
⇒ La Meuse
⇒ La Marne
⇒ La Haute-Marne
⇒ La Moselle
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Mademoiselle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's permission is mandatory prior to any use
