Home FranceExtended Weekend in Albi, Tarn

Extended Weekend in Albi, Tarn

by Melle Bon Plan
Published: Updated:

It was in April 2019 that we first discovered, with my favorite photographer, the superb city of Albi located in the Tarn department in Occitanie. The latter takes its name from the Tarn river that runs through it. And Albi is the prefecture of this department, located northeast of Toulouse.

I returned to this beautiful region in May 2022 with my favorite photographer, but also with 2 blogger friends, to visit Albi the Red a bit more and share with you this love for this city with its Italian charm. Then, another stop in the Tarn in May 2024 brought us back once again to the episcopal city. This article is therefore a summary of these three getaways and the discoveries we made there, not to mention my famous selection of great addresses, as I love doing!

Pont Vieux in Albi, view of the city and Sainte-Cécile Cathedral in the Tarn.
Pont-Vieux in Albi crossing the Tarn with boats and red brick houses.

Practical Information for visiting Albi

Getting to Albi from Paris: from the capital, the fastest way is to fly to Toulouse Blagnac airport (there are affordable flights with EasyJet). Once there, it is very easy to rent a car from the airport to travel around the region. For all practical information on the region and the city, I advise you to visit the websites of Tarn Tourisme and Albi Tourisme (links below).

Tarn Tourisme

Link to the website

Albi Tourisme

Link to the website


What to see and do in Albi?

I must say that I was completely won over from my first visit by the charm of the episcopal city of Albi, which is unlike any other French city I’ve seen (well, based on what I’ve discovered in France so far)! It enchants with its warm colors, its tranquility, and the beauty of its heritage. It is nicknamed Albi the Red or the Purple because of the bricks and tiles that made its reputation. The city has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since July 2010. I went to visit Tuscany in 2019, and I really think this city gives off the same atmosphere as that famous Italian region. The city is also the chief town of the Tarn department and is about an hour’s drive from Toulouse.

I strongly advise you to go for a walk towards the Pont-vieux, especially at the end of the day to enjoy the beautiful light that bathes the city at that time. You can see the fortifications that line the Tarn, as well as the Palais de la Berbie and the imposing Sainte-Cécile Cathedral, a vessel of bricks set above the Tarn. As usual, I also offer you below a small selection of ideas for things to see and do during your stay in Albi.

View of Albi from the Tarn with red brick houses and bell tower.
View of Albi over the Tarn with the Pont Vieux and the railway viaduct.
Terrace of the "Au Nom du Père" restaurant on a cobbled square in Albi.

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Visit Sainte-Cécile Cathedral

It is one of the city’s major landmarks! The Cathedral is highly contrasted between the rigor of its defensive exterior architecture and the richness of its interior decoration, with 15th-century paintings and sculptures and 16th-century Italian Renaissance frescoes. It is also the largest brick building in the world!

The cathedral of Albi is considered a masterpiece of Southern Gothic art, but it is also a testament to the Christian faith after the Cathar heresy. It is dedicated to Saint Cecilia, the patron saint of musicians. I also recommend visiting the cathedral’s Flamboyant Gothic-style choir (paid visit), which is absolutely magnificent! There, you can notably admire very beautiful stone Burgundian sculptures.

Sainte-Cécile Cathedral in Albi and its massive red brick bell tower.
Gothic interior of Sainte-Cécile Cathedral in Albi with choir and painted vault.
Interior vault and chandelier of Sainte-Cécile Cathedral in Albi.

Sainte-Cécile Cathedral

5 Boulevard Général Sibille, 81000 Albi
Nave with free access, Monday to Wednesday: 9:00 AM / 6:30 PM / Thursday to Saturday: 8:30 AM / 6:30 PM / Sunday: 9:00 AM / 6:00 PM
Rates: entry to the choir: €6 / combined ticket choir + treasure: €6 / free for children under 12

Great tip: the Christophe Moucherel association offers free concerts on Wednesday and Sunday afternoons in July and August

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Stroll through the gardens of the Palais de la Berbie

Before or after your visit to the cathedral or the Toulouse Lautrec museum, I advise you to discover the gardens of the Palais de la Berbie (which is the former Bishops’ Palace), installed there by Hyacinthe Serroni, an archbishop who loved plants, at the end of the 17th century. You can access it for free every day from 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM. By strolling along the old curtain wall, you get a superb panoramic view of the banks of the Tarn and the surrounding hills.

Smiling woman in Albi with a view of the city and the Tarn river.
View of Albi from the gardens, with the city and the Tarn river.

Gardens of the Palais de la Berbie

Free access
Every day from 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM

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Visit the Toulouse Lautrec Museum

It is obviously a must-see if you come to discover Albi! The museum is housed in the former episcopal palace, the Palais de la Berbie, built in the 13th century. The museum presents the largest collection in the world of the Albigensian painter, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. Among which are the 31 famous posters by the artist, but also early paintings, portraits, paintings of brothels, posters, lithographs…

The museum route allows you to discover more about the evolution of this atypical and fascinating artist. I was very surprised myself because, in the end, I may have had a slightly false vision of this painter… But obviously, when you visit this museum accompanied by an enthusiast, it’s hard not to be hooked!

Interior courtyard of the Palais de la Berbie in Albi with round red brick towers.
Visitor admiring paintings by Toulouse-Lautrec at the Museum of Albi, Tarn.
Detail of Toulouse Lautrec poster of dancers' legs at Museum of Albi, Tarn
Framed Toulouse-Lautrec painting, Musée Toulouse-Lautrec Albi.
Oil painting of a white horse head, Musée Toulouse Lautrec Albi

The museum also regularly offers temporary exhibitions, and when we went in 2019, we saw an exhibition on “Alberto Giacometti, from model”, which has now finished.

Visitor looking at Giacometti sculptures at the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi.

During our visit in 2022, we saw the temporary exhibition on Degas, the “dancer painter,” and Lautrec titled “When Lautrec looks at Degas.” Indeed, the studios of these two artists were in the same building in Paris, so they must have crossed paths. I notably learned during this visit that Lautrec had great admiration for Degas, who used pastel a lot, but that it wasn’t necessarily mutual… This exhibition also ended in September, unfortunately.

Visited in 2019 and 2022

Musée Toulouse Lautrec

Palais de la Berbie, Place Sainte-Cécile, 81000 Albi
Rates: €10 / €5 reduced / free up to 17 years old

Link to the museum’s website

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“Chill” in the garden of the Saint-Salvi cloister

Hidden from the bustle of the nearby shopping streets, the charming garden of the Saint-Salvi cloister is freely accessible from several places: from Rue Sainte-Cécile, by crossing the collegiate church, or through the covered passages from Place Saint-Salvi. You can admire beautiful paired columns, topped by Romanesque and Gothic capitals. This place was the cloister of the Saint-Salvi collegiate church, which is the oldest church in Albi.

Cloître de la Daurade in Albi, garden and medieval arcade.
Antique stone cloister with arcade, young woman with arms raised.

Saint-Salvi Cloister Garden

Albi

Free access
Open every day from 7:00 AM to 8:00 PM

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Take photos at Place Savène

This little hidden square is a haven of peace and a charming photo spot! With its colorful shutters, half-timbered houses, bench, and cats, it’s a secret and little-known place that I encourage you to discover while wandering through the city.

Colorful half-timbered and cobbled houses in Albi with bench and plants. Nicolas Diolez.
House facade with red door and red shutters, abundance of potted plants.

My Food recommendations in Albi

As usual, I provide you below with the few great addresses (restaurants, market…) that I had the opportunity to test on-site during my stays in Albi. Regarding gastronomy, there are many specialties to discover in the department, and as you might expect, that doesn’t displease me… If you like local beers, for example, you will be well served because the region is rich in micro-breweries. Regarding wine production, it is obviously the Gaillac wines that you must taste.

Other specialties to bring back in your luggage: typically Albigensian foie gras; saffron-based dishes; cod cassoulet; dry liver sausage (to die for!!!) from the Boucherie Millas (stand in the covered market); Bougnette (pork-based preparation cooked in broth mixed with an egg panade and wrapped in a caul fat), and melsat (a type of white pudding).

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Buy local products at the Albi market

I recommend you go strolling through the Albi market, which is held on Saturday morning if you have the opportunity. It takes place 50 meters from Place Sainte-Cécile and also in the halls of the covered market. It’s the perfect place to bring back some local specialties (which we obviously did). And if you are not available on Saturday morning to do the market, don’t panic, you can also enjoy the covered market from Tuesday to Sunday. It has been taking place in beautiful Baltard-style halls since 1905!

Outdoor market in front of the Covered Market of Albi, Tarn.

Albi Covered Market

Rue Emile Grand, 81000 Albi

open Tuesday to Sunday from 7:00 AM to 2:00 PM (and also on holidays)

link to the covered market website

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In this small neighborhood grocery store located in the city center of Albi, one finds only products from local producers.

Blue facade of the "la joie" deli in Albi with its chalkboard of local products.
Tested in 2024

Épicerie La Joie
33 rue de l’Hôtel de Ville 81000 Albi
open Tuesday to Saturday from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM

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This brand, which has existed for over 20 years, owns a single boutique located in the historic Albigensian center. Their store offers teas from various terroirs and origins, grown by small producers, but also flavored tea or herbal tea creations and accessories like pretty teapots. You can also find their products online on their website.

Facade of the L'Artisan du Thé boutique on a cobbled street in Albi.
Tested in 2024

L’Artisan du Thé

38 rue de l’hôtel de ville 81 000 Albi

Link to the brand’s website

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Where to eat on a terrace in Albi? Le Cascarbar

This restaurant, located in the heart of Albi and which we tested during our 2022 visit, offers a nice terrace overlooking a pedestrian street for sunny days. You can also find a menu with an interesting option featuring a platter with several small appetizers from the menu and the same for desserts (starting at €25).

To taste as a drink: the artisanal Albigensian beers from Brasserie Margot (we tested the white with sage and the yuzu blonde, price €5.50).

Terrace of the Cascarbar in Albi with clients seated outdoors.
Tested in 2022

Restaurant le Cascarbar

29 Rue Saint-Julien, 81000 Albi

Link to the restaurant’s website

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Where to eat local in Albi? Le Pont du Tarn Restaurant (closed)

This Albigensian restaurant, opened in 2019, highlights Tarn terroir products. Everything, or almost everything, is made in Tarn in this establishment that offers dishes with products from small producers and local breeders. This locavore address is ideally located right next to the old bridge I was telling you about earlier.

To taste: the croquettes with pink garlic from Lautrec (€11); for dessert, the apple croustade (€6); for wine, you can find a very beautiful selection of Gaillac wines (price per glass between €2 and €5), which is the best-known local appellation; and for beer lovers, you won’t be left out either with notably a local draft beer, the Belles de Trébas (between €3 and €3.50).

Interior bar-restaurant Albi, wooden counter, exposed bricks, waitress.
Couple drinking beer in a modern restaurant in Albi, blue and gold decor.
Restaurant Le Pont du Tarn, half-timbered house, Albi.
Tested in 2019

Restaurant Le Pont du Tarn

1 rue d’Engueysse 81000 Albi
open 7 days a week from morning to night

Update from May 2024: unfortunately, I learned during my last trip to the Tarn that this restaurant had burned down along with the building that houses it, a few months earlier…

Link to the restaurant’s website

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Where to eat lunch in Albi? Restaurant CAF’ART au Hibou

This restaurant is located opposite the covered market and offers simple cuisine, based on market products, and eco-responsible. The place is very nice, lively, blending the old with more recent art. The establishment spans several floors with very different atmospheres, including a concept store and a tattoo parlor at the very top… In short, an arty, eclectic place with very high appeal that I advise you to try after visiting the market, for example.

On the plate, you’ll find quite creative, fresh, and surprising cuisine, which obviously pleased us a lot. For drinks, the owner offers a beautiful selection of beers from local micro-breweries like Le Pont Vieux or Les Gélines (€4 per 33cl bottle).

Meal and craft beers in Albi, Tarn : Huit Diolez.
Interior restaurant Albi, clients eating near a shelf of wine bottles.
Interior boutique Albi with yellow armchair, wooden table and coats on a rack.
Tested in 2019

Restaurant CAF’ART Au Hibou

21 rue Saint-Julien – 81000 Albi
Price: menu of the day with appetizer + main or main + dessert for €16 / appetizer + main + dessert for €18

Link to the restaurant’s Facebook page

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Where to have a gastronomic meal in Albi? L’Epicurien Restaurant

This restaurant offers beautiful gastronomic creations in a sleek setting. The cuisine is of a high standard, and if you want to treat yourself, I strongly recommend this address, which has delighted our gourmet palates, not once but twice! A dinner there is also an opportunity to let yourself be carried away by the discoveries of sommelier Guillaume Roubet, who knows the region’s wines very well. We tasted some very beautiful things during our first visit, such as a local sweet wine, l’Amoureuse from Domaine Galaup, served at the end of the meal.

We had an excellent evening at l’Epicurien during our first visit in 2019, and what’s more, we had a funny surprise upon arriving, because the person who welcomed us was none other than our table neighbor from the dinner the previous evening with whom we had chatted a little. The world is small in Albi, and we already felt at home in just 2 days! During our 2nd visit in 2022, the quality of the address did not waver, and once again, we had a very good time. After these 2 tests, I can therefore recommend this beautiful address for a gastronomic meal over the long term.

Creamy green velouté with croutons and a drizzle of cream, Tarn appetizer.
Grilled salmon steak on potato and vegetable salad, near glasses of wine.
Diolèz appetizer: breaded fish, cucumber, herbs, Albi Tarn.
Waitress walking in the modern interior of the Épicurien restaurant in Albi.
Tested in 2019 and 2022

Restaurant l’Epicurien

42, Place Jean Jaurès 81000 Albi

Prices: the menu of the moment with appetizer + main + dessert for €35 (+ €15 for food & wine pairing) / all-fish menu at €49.50 (+ €20 for food & wine pairing) / Epicurien menu at €59 in 4 courses (+ €25 for food & wine pairing)

Great tip: the chalkboard of the day (from Tuesday to Friday, lunch only) with appetizer + main or main + dessert for €21 and appetizer + main + dessert for €23.50

Link to the restaurant’s website

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This restaurant, opened in 2023, is installed in a former forge that was active until 1998. You will find very good cuisine there, with bold and creative combinations.

We tasted: perfect egg with lentils in green celery condiment (€16); marinated sea bass with walnut oil and apples (€18); duck breast with raspberry sauce (€25); veal cut with carrot sauce and garden tarragon (€28); the “Paris calm” and the “Slender strawberry” by pastry chef Cédric Millet (€10 per dessert).

La Forge du Vieil Alby

9 Rue de la Croix Blanche, 81000 Albi

Rates: Air menu with appetizer + main + dessert for €36 / Terre menu with appetizer + main + dessert for €46 / Feu menu at €100 for 2 people / vegetarian menu €36 / children’s menu €16

Great tip: menu of the day (lunchtime only, Tuesday to Friday) with appetizer + main + dessert for €21 / appetizer + main or main + dessert for €19 / main only €17

Link to the restaurant’s website

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Where to brunch in Albi? Amapola kitchen

This address, opened in 2018, offers a great brunch formula on the weekend for €25 all-inclusive. I really recommend you go to brunch in this nice little coffee shop, which offers a copious and high-quality brunch only on Sunday, however (also remember to book because the place is small and fills up quickly as a result).

On the program for this Sunday brunch (which changes according to the seasons and products): cold soup, sandwich, fruit juice, hot drink, and pancake.

Tested in 2022

Amapola Kitchen

100 Rue Porta, 81000 Albi

Brunch formula at €25 on Sundays only

Link to the address’s Facebook page

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This Tarno-Mexican private chef offers meals for 10 people or more. We had the opportunity to discover her talent during a dinner at the bed & breakfast Kassiopée Bed & Spa where we stayed in Albi during our trip to the Tarn in 2024 (which I talk about in the following paragraph). Yazmin previously owned the restaurant L’Ambroisie in Albi with her sommelier husband, Guillaume. Following Covid, they sold their establishment to offer meals “at home,” keeping the Ambroisie label and working as a pair in the kitchen and dining room.

Yazmin Geze, private chef

Link to the chef’s Facebook page


My hotels and accommodations in Albi

As usual, you will find below my selection of great accommodation addresses (1 hotel and 3 bed & breakfasts) in Albi, which we had the opportunity to test during our three stays in the city with my favorite photographer.

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This contemporary and ecological guesthouse, run by Irène and Nicolas, is located in the green lung of Albi and has 5 rooms. It opened in 2021 and offers contemporary and eco-responsible architecture thanks to a terracotta building. The setting of this accommodation is very green because it is surrounded by many market gardens and is only a 20-minute walk from the city center (based on what we were told, because we didn’t have time to verify it ourselves).

This accommodation is truly perfect for a romantic stay as a couple, and each room has a private terrace with a spa/jacuzzi where it is good to relax. Moreover, the accommodation’s wastewater is sanitized by plants and then reused to water the accommodation’s green spaces. The place also strives to reduce its waste as much as possible by composting and sorting. Finally, the place has a beautiful swimming pool for enthusiasts. And a very pleasant little bonus: breakfast is served in the room on a very practical rolling tray, to let you appreciate the intimacy of the place even more.

Lush garden near a modern house in Albi under a cloudy sky.
Wooden terrace with relaxed woman and jacuzzi, accommodation Albi.
Tested in 2024

Chambre d’hôte Kassiopée Bed & Spa

21 chemin des Issards 81000 Albi
Rates: nights between €160 and €250 depending on the season

Link to the bed & breakfast website

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An upscale and designer bed & breakfast in Albi? L’Autre Rives (closed)

This charming address is installed in a beautiful house dating from between the two wars, with a magnificent garden with a swimming pool at the back. Isabelle receives her guests magnificently at her home with a kindness and rare attention that is particularly appreciable, and I insist on this point because we had a wonderful stay at her place. The breakfasts are truly delicious with local products and a significant portion of “homemade” items (cream puffs, homemade cakes, homemade yogurts…). We were staying with my favorite photographer in the Zen suite of the house, with a nice view of the cathedral in the “living room” part. And then, the icing on the cake, the prices are truly very accessible, I find, for the standing of the place.

This charming address, decorated with great taste, offers 5 very spacious themed rooms (Vintage, Scandinavian, Zen, Baroque, Ethnic), a landscaped garden, a swimming pool, a sauna, and a fitness room, as well as a parking lot if you come by car. In short, it is truly one of the most beautiful bed & breakfasts I have had the opportunity to visit in France, so I highly recommend it.

Villa facade in bricks and plaster with green garden, L'Autre Rives, Albi.
Outdoor pool with wooden terrace, red loungers, and hammock in a green garden.
Hotel room L'Autre Rives Albi with floral wall headboard and cushions.
Tested in 2022

Design guest house by Isabelle Martial

60 Rue Cantepau, 81000 Albi

Room prices: starting at €115 per night (breakfast included)

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Another Bed & Breakfast in Albi? La Villa Caroline

I haven’t tested this bed & breakfast, but Laure from Copines de Bons Plans and Pascal slept there during their stay, and they highly recommended it to us as well. It also offers a stunning view of the cathedral of Albi.

La Villa Caroline

16 Rue de l’Équerre, 81000 Albi

Room prices: starting at approximately €100 (minimum 2-night booking)

Link to the bed & breakfast website

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Where to sleep in Albi? Hôtel-restaurant Alchimy Albi****

Opened in 2019 in an Art Deco building designed by the architect León Daures in the 1920s, this establishment is a 4-star luxury hotel. It is ideally located in the center of the city of Albi, which is particularly practical, I must say, when you come to visit the city. If you come by car, know that the hotel also has a garage for its guests, as it is very (extremely) difficult to park in the neighborhood.

Our Room no. 9

The rooms are magnificently decorated with great taste, and the bedding is extremely comfortable! We also had a very beautiful bathtub in our room, and I am always fond of baths when I am at a hotel because it is a change from my small Parisian shower…

Comfortable hotel room with large bed and nightstands in Albi.
Woman in bathrobe having breakfast in bed in a hotel room in Albi.
Breakfast served on a silver tray with croissants, coffee, orange juice, and fruits.

Breakfast

Breakfast in the room is the same as in the dining room. So, I strongly advise you to have it in the room, because breakfast in bed during the holidays is the best thing for relaxing…

Breakfast served at the hotel in Albi with croissants, kiwi, and coffee.

The Restaurant

In addition to being a magnificent hotel, the establishment also offers a quality bistronomic restaurant. I liked the restaurant dining room a lot with its overhead glass roof, which is really beautiful and particularly conducive to a romantic dinner. On the plates, you will find a seasonal menu that revisits classic French cuisine using fresh products. The restaurant offers a beautiful selection of wines by the glass, including some local Gaillac productions (price per glass between €5 and €10). For an aperitif, if you want to taste local, I advise you to try the Gaillacois sparkling wine Mauzac Nature (€7 a glass).

Cream puff and chantilly on white plate, Albi dessert.
Woman eating in a modern restaurant in Albi, Tarn.

Price: l’Instant Alchimique menu with appetizer + main + dessert for €38 (7 days/7 lunch and dinner)

Good to know: the establishment offers a vegetarian menu ‘l’Instant Végé’ with appetizer + main + dessert for €28 (7 days/7 lunch and dinner)

Great tip: the Pause Alchimique for lunch (Monday to Friday) from the chalkboard with appetizer + main or main + dessert for €18 / appetizer + main + dessert for €21

Tested in 2019

Hôtel Alchimy

12 Place du Palais, 81000 Albi
Room prices: approximately €160 per night with parking and breakfast included

Link to the hotel’s website

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Many thanks to Tarn Tourisme, the Albi Tourist Office, and Pascal from the aiRPur Agency for these beautiful discoveries! And also thanks to my travel friends for their good humor (don’t hesitate to take a look at their articles about the Tarn and Albi): Copines de Bons Plans and Parisian Touch!

Four people toasting with white wine at a wooden table in a restaurant.

I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover Albi, and if you also have your own great addresses and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!

Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez
Photos are not royalty-free; the photographer's authorization is mandatory before any use

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