Home CultureIn the footsteps of Van Gogh in Auvers-sur-Oise, a village of artists

In the footsteps of Van Gogh in Auvers-sur-Oise, a village of artists

by Melle Bon Plan
Published: Updated:

I always enjoy telling you about projects close to my heart that I feel are important to support. I had already mentioned the cultural season in Auvers-sur-Oise, dedicated to Vincent Van Gogh, which aims to attract tourists and Parisians alike to this beautiful town—a “seriously beautiful countryside,” as Vincent called it. Indeed, it’s a recurring theme for me, but you know I hold firmly to the idea that we have everything to discover in Ile-de-France (the world’s leading tourist destination) and that there is no need to travel far to go sightseeing and get a change of scenery (even if that can be fun too).

The initiative for the “In the footsteps of Van Gogh” program comes from the town of Auvers-sur-Oise, supported by the Paris Ile-de-France Regional Tourism Committee (CRT) and in partnership with the Institut Van Gogh. The village’s cultural stakeholders have all mobilized to offer the many visitors (who are often true “pilgrims”) a rich and diverse program. This theme (which began in 2014) continues every year under the name “Van Gogh along the Oise,” in homage to the river that gives the town its name. The major event of the 2016 season was the start of the construction of a scale replica of Charles-François Daubigny’s studio boat.

Tomb of Vincent Van Gogh in Auvers-sur-Oise: Here lies Vincent Van Gogh.

A little bit of history:

Auvers-sur-Oise, a village in the Paris “hinterland” and the gateway to the French Vexin Regional Natural Park, located less than 30 km from the capital, owes its fame to Vincent Van Gogh, who left an indelible mark on this unique area, making it part of the region’s heritage. In a letter to his brother Theo, he described it thus: “Auvers is seriously beautiful, it’s true country, characteristic and picturesque.” In May 1890, after notable visits by Honoré Daumier, Camille Corot, Camille Pissarro, and Paul Cézanne, Auvers-sur-Oise took on a new dimension in art history with the highly creative stay of Vincent van Gogh. In less than 70 days, the painter produced nearly 80 works there, some of which are among the most striking of his career, such as Wheatfield with Crows, Portrait of Dr. Gachet, or The Church at Auvers.

Van Gogh chose the destination of Auvers to find calm and inspiration after a period of mental instability treated in an asylum near Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The presence of Dr. Gachet, a physician and fine connoisseur of the art of his time, was a guarantee of safety in case of relapse. He was also a valuable sounding board who understood and encouraged his artistic projects.

It was therefore full of hope, energy, and plans that Van Gogh moved in “at Ravoux’s,” a modest establishment where he negotiated his room for 1 franc and meals for 2.50 francs per day. Unfortunately, this optimistic period was short-lived. Overcome by his old demons, Van Gogh shot himself in the chest on July 29, 1890, and passed away in room number 5 of the Auberge Ravoux.

Flowering fruit tree branches in Auvers-sur-Oise, with a view of rooftops.

Below, I offer a short guided tour of the sites; note that all the places to visit are within walking distance of each other.

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The Auberge Ravoux (known as the House of Van Gogh)

The Auberge Ravoux, located in the heart of the village of Auvers-sur-Oise, was the last home of Vincent van Gogh (1853-1890) who, in his 37 years of life, had no fewer than 37 other addresses in the Netherlands, Belgium, England, and France. The site, a place of memory classified as a “Historic Monument” in 1985, is today the only house where Van Gogh lived that remains in its original state. You can visit the room he occupied, located in the attic of the Auberge Ravoux.

In a separate audiovisual room, a video evokes the artist’s stay in Auvers-sur-Oise through his paintings, excerpts from his correspondence, and period photographs. Ten illustrated and landscape-integrated information panels in the courtyard trace Van Gogh’s human and artistic itinerary through the various places he inhabited.

Auberge Ravoux
Place de la Mairie - 95430 Auvers-sur-Oise

6 € full price / 4 € reduced price / free for children under 12

open from Saturday, March 1st to Sunday, October 26th
and Wednesday to Sunday: from 10am to 6pm (last visit at 5:30pm)

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The Daubigny Museum of Auvers-sur-Oise

Created in the mid-80s by four Auvers residents passionate about art, the Daubigny Museum, now municipal, allows you to discover original works that testify to the teeming artistic life of the Oise Valley, frequented by numerous artists of the 19th and 20th centuries. On the first floor of the Manoir des Colombières, the museum presents a collection of paintings, drawings, and engravings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries centered around the works of Charles-François Daubigny (1817-1878), a precursor to the Impressionists. A landscape painter, he moored his studio boat in Auvers-sur-Oise around 1860.

Daubigny’s open-air work along the banks of the Oise helped foster the emergence of Impressionism, and Auvers, where the artist would eventually settle permanently in 1861, became one of the movement’s nerve centers.

Exterior of the Daubigny Museum in Auvers-sur-Oise with stone steps.
Facade of the Daubigny Museum in Auvers-sur-Oise with visitors in the rain.
Musée Daubigny
Rue de la Sansonne, 95430 Auvers-sur-Oise
Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays: from 2pm to 5:30pm
Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays: from 10:30am to 12:30pm and from 2pm to 5:30pm

5 € full price / 2 € reduced price / free for under 18s

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The Château d’Auvers-sur-Oise

The Château d’Auvers was built in the 17th century for an Italian banker in the entourage of Marie de Medici and was purchased in 1987 by the General Council of Val d’Oise. Since 1994, it has offered the “Journey to the time of the Impressionists” exhibition.

This journey “immerses” the public in the atmosphere of Haussmann’s Paris, Parisian cabarets, and invites you to discover the delights—but also the downsides—of absinthe, the “Bonheur des Dames” fashion, the train and the famous Gare Saint-Lazare, trips to the seaside, painters and their floating studios… “Journey to the time of the Impressionists” is an educational and interactive tour that is also a great introduction to visiting the village of Auvers.

Sculpted fountain in front of the Château d'Auvers-sur-Oise.
Le Château d'Auvers-sur-Oise
rue de Levy - 95430 Auvers-sur-Oise

open from Tuesday to Sunday and on public holidays

"Journey to the time of the Impressionists" price: 14.75 € adult / 10.65 € reduced / 
free for children under 6

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The Absinthe Museum of Auvers-sur-Oise

Located a stone’s throw from the Auberge Ravoux, the Absinthe Museum evokes what café life was like in the Impressionist era. To showcase the importance of absinthe in the social and cultural life of the 19th century, the museum presents a unique and authentic collection of objects that were part of the tableware necessary for the ritual of consuming this drink.

The tour is complemented by an exhibition of press drawings, etchings, and paintings on the theme of absinthe, which was then known as “the Green Fairy.” It can also end with a tasting offered on-site.

Antique bar at the Absinthe Museum, Auvers-sur-Oise, with Terminus clock.
Musée de l'Absinthe
44, rue Callé - 95430 Auvers-sur-Oise

open from early March to October 30th every Saturday, Sunday, and public holiday from 1:30pm to 6pm

5 € full price / 4 € reduced price / free for children under 15

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The House of Doctor Gachet

This venue hosts annual temporary exhibitions on themes related to the activities and life of Doctor Gachet. A physician, member of scholarly societies, amateur painter, and engraver, Doctor Gachet bought a house in Auvers-sur-Oise in 1872. He installed a printing press there on which he drew and etched in the company of Cézanne, Pissarro, and Guillaumin.

Listed with its garden in the supplementary inventory of historical monuments in 1991, the house, bought by the General Council of Val d’Oise in 1996, opened its doors to the public in 2003. Van Gogh immortalized Dr. Gachet by painting his portrait three times: two oil paintings and one etching. An inseparable figure from Van Gogh’s final months, Dr. Gachet combined art and medicine throughout his life.

Garden in Auvers-sur-Oise with an artistic glass panel inspired by Van Gogh.
Maison du Docteur Gachet
78, rue du Docteur Gachet 95430 auvers-sur-Oise

Free admission 
Wednesday to Sunday: 10:30am - 6:30pm

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The tomb of Van Gogh in Auvers-sur-Oise

You must also visit the town cemetery, where the tomb of Van Gogh and his brother Théo is located.

Tombs of Vincent and Theodore Van Gogh in Auvers-sur-Oise.

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Daubigny’s Studio-House

A must-see for the exceptional decorations that adorn the walls of this 19th-century studio-house (200 m²), painted by Daubigny father and son, but also by Corot, Daumier, and Oudinot, which testify to the family happiness and artistic effervescence of that era. Classified as a historic monument, this place of memory invites you to soak up an authentic atmosphere and a preserved ambiance. At the end of the visit, it is very pleasant to sit in the garden during the summer, a true haven of peace.

Atelier Daubigny
61 Rue Daubigny - 95430 Auvers-sur-Oise

6 € full price / 4 € reduced price / free for children under 12

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Contemporary Art Exhibition in Auvers-sur-Oise

This project aims to showcase the work of the thirty or so artists who have chosen to live and work in Auvers-sur-Oise. This new collective of artists, the GRAPS Collectif, also offers encounters and unique visits throughout the duration of the exhibition.

Contemporary Art Gallery
5, rue du Montcel 95430 Auvers-sur-Oise

open from 2pm to 6pm every weekend and public holiday
from April 2nd to May 29th, then from July 23rd to August 28th 2016
free admission

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The Church Notre Dame of Auvers-sur-Oise

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Where to stay in Auvers-sur-Oise? Hôtel des Iris

This brand new, charming 3-star hotel with only 8 rooms & suites opened last March. The establishment is housed in a fully restored former post office. For our part, we stayed in the hotel’s large suite. A sublime room with high ceilings and a magnificent bathtub. However, I would recommend this room only to couples who have reached a certain level of intimacy, as the toilet is not isolated from the bedroom; it is just hidden behind a small alcove… romance guaranteed…

Special mention for the very good breakfast, prepared with quality products! And it’s worth noting, as that’s often the weak point in hotels, I find.

Hotel room with double bed, metal headboard, and floral wallpaper.
Set tables and colorful chairs reflected in a decorated mirror at the hotel.
Hôtel des Iris

21 rue du Général de Gaulle 95430 Auvers-sur-Oise

Price: from 89 € per night
For info, the hotel also operates as a Tea Room every day from 7:30am to 11:30am and from 2:30pm 
to 6pm

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Where to eat in Auvers-sur-Oise? Restaurant L’Atelier Gourmand

This restaurant offers a menu with burgers and crepes, but I would especially recommend this address for its burgers, as it has been participating in the Coupe de France du Burger by Socopa for 2 years.

Black bun burger and fries, Restaurant Auvers-sur-Oise Avenue Verte Paris Londres.
L'atelier Gourmand

11 Rue du Général de Gaulle, 95430 Auvers-sur-Oise
Price: Menu at 24 € including starter + main course + dessert

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Getting to Auvers-sur-Oise:

  • By car (28 km from Porte Maillot or Porte de Clignancourt). Via Gennevilliers, La Défense, or Porte de Clignancourt: head towards Cergy-Pontoise A15, then take the A115 motorway towards Amiens-Beauvais, then exit Méry-sur-Oise Centre – direction Auvers-sur-Oise.
  • By train (all sites participating in the cultural season are accessible on foot from the station), direct route connecting Paris Nord station to Auvers every Saturday, Sunday, and public holiday from April 01 to October 29, 2017, during the entire “In the footsteps of Van Gogh” cultural season.

Outbound: departure from Paris Gare du Nord: 9:38am – arrival in Auvers-sur-Oise: 10:22am

Return: departure from Auvers-sur-Oise: 6:25pm – arrival at Paris Gare du Nord: 6:55pm (check schedules, as they are subject to change)

Cyclist in front of the "La Pichotte" house in Auvers-sur-Oise with flowers.

Every day, all year round:

  • From Paris Nord station, Line H: take it to Valmondois, then transfer for Auvers-sur-Oise.
  • From any Paris station on the RER C: head to Pontoise, then transfer to Line H for Auvers-sur-Oise.
  • From Paris St Lazare station, Line J: head to Pontoise, then transfer to Line H for Auvers-sur-Oise.
  • By RER and Bus Line C towards and stop at Pontoise station, Line A towards Cergy-le-Haut, get off at Cergy-Préfecture; Bus 9507 from Pontoise and Cergy-Préfecture stations: direction Parmain/Jouy-le-Comte, stop Mairie d’Auvers-sur-Oise.
Van Gogh quote: "Better to die of passion than of boredom" on canvas.
Photo credits: Mademoiselle Bon Plan and Nicolas Diolez
Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization mandatory before any use

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