What I love most about my Parisian life is that, even after more than 10 years of roaming the streets of the capital, I regularly discover new facets of it.
It was, for instance, only very recently that I discovered Le Pharamond, a legendary restaurant in the Les Halles district of Paris.
For the record, Alexandre Pharamond settled in Les Halles in 1832 to introduce Parisians to tripes à la mode de Caen (his native region). In 1879, his grandson created the current restaurant on Rue de la Grande Truanderie.
On-site, they offer Norman cuisine with tripe, of course, but also with all products from the Norman terroir.
At the time, many celebrities and political figures, from Clemenceau to Hemingway and Chirac, quickly became regulars, especially in the very intimate and discreet lounges on the second floor.
These lounges are actually absolutely magnificent, and a quick visit is a must if you go for lunch or dinner at Le Pharamond. You can also book them for a birthday or a special occasion, and the place is sure to make an impression, I can assure you!
The extraordinary decor of the establishment is now classified as a Historic Monument, and it is almost worth the trip to this Parisian venue on its own. But in reality, there’s more to it than that…
To be honest, I was really pleasantly surprised by the quality of what is offered on the plate. The menu has clearly evolved toward more gastronomic influences with the recent arrival of the new chef, Sébastien Richard, who already has an impressive career behind him (he received 1 Michelin star in 2010 for his restaurant La Table de Sébastien in Istres). He is now dedicated to this establishment, revisiting traditional recipes of Norman cuisine.
He places great importance on the origin and quality of the products used in the kitchen through the choice of his suppliers, most of whom are Norman. As for the vegetables selected, they are seasonal and mostly organic.
On the menu, you find Le Pharamond classics such as the tripes à la mode de Caen from Maison Ruault in Vire, and the handmade andouillette.
Since I’m not a fan of andouillette, I didn’t risk testing it for you, but our neighbors had chosen it and I can guarantee that we at least enjoyed the smell… In short, if you like that, I think it’s the ideal place to eat it!
To taste:
- As a starter, the organic egg cocotte, with foie gras, mushrooms, squash, and a truffle emulsion (€14).
- Another starter with grilled scallops in a Jerusalem artichoke velouté and crisps (€17.50).
- As a main course, the Catch of the day with shrimp and shellfish in an iodized broth (€19).
- The Norman-style Rossini Beef, sautéed potatoes, foie gras, and truffle (€28).
- And for dessert of the day, the chocolate and orange tartlet (€9), fine and light.
Obviously, after this good meal, I strongly, strongly recommend having a small glass of 20-year-old Calvados, special Le Pharamond blend from Château du Breuil; it goes down smooth and, plus, it warms you up!
The tip: lunch menu from Monday to Friday at €16.90 / the Alexandre menu with starter + main + cheese or dessert at €34
Le Pharamond 24 Rue de la Grande Truanderie 75001 Paris Open every day from 12 PM to 3 PM and 7 PM to 10:30 PM
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Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Melle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
