It was my first time in the Pyrenees in winter… Being born in Lyon, the mountains to me are the Alps… So I was particularly delighted to discover this mountain range this year, which I actually know very little about.
Plus, in 2017/2018 (we went in January of this year), the resort celebrated its 60th anniversary by offering a festive program throughout the seasons, so it was the perfect time to visit.
At an altitude of 830 meters and just 20km from the Spanish border in the Aure Valley, the pretty Pyrenean village of Saint-Lary Soulan boasts the most popular ski area in the Pyrenees, with its 100 km of slopes, a major snowpark, and off-piste spots.
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Table of Contents
Practical Information
Ski passes
- Introductory pass at €30.50 / day or Grand Pla d’Adet pass at €35 / day or Grand Domaine pass (100 km of slopes) at €42 / day
- 2-day pass €84 / 6-day pass €221
Pro tip: the My Alti card, which provides discounts on lift passes
- My Alti Club €30 for the season and -20% on ski days
- My Alti Classic €5 for the season and -10% on ski days
Getting here
From Paris, I think the simplest way is still to go as we did, by plane (Paris – Toulouse), because you can find cheap tickets with Easyjet (then you have to rent a car or take a shuttle to the resort, about a 2-hour drive) or by train using the new high-speed rail line.
The Saint-Lary Tourist Office
It is the perfect place to get all the information about the resort: open all year round / in winter open every day from 9 am to 7 pm.
Saint-Lary Tourist Office 37 rue Vincent Mir 65170 Saint-Lary Soulan
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What to do in Saint-Lary?
As usual, I suggest a small selection of activity ideas, visits, in short, things to do (whether you are heading to the slopes or not) to make the most of the resort and your stay.
Strolling through the village of Saint-Lary-Soulan
This small mountain village is also worth a stroll and taking the time to wander, if only to enjoy its market on the weekend or to discover its beautiful stone heritage.
A bit above the village, I also recommend you take a look at the Saint-Pierre de Soulan parish church, which is a lovely Romanesque church built right into the rock and remodeled in the 17th century. Plus, there is also an old charming washhouse right next to it.
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Skiing the slopes to discover the resort
This year, as we had gotten back into the swing of things a bit last year, we skied like pros without an instructor on the lovely Saint-Lary ski area, and it was truly very pleasant.
The resort’s ski area has more than a hundred kilometers of slopes (including 56 slopes and 3 freestyle areas in total) and it is very accessible to beginners and children, which earned it the Famille Plus label.
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Try out the Snooc
This rental shop is located at the foot of the ski slopes, which is super convenient. As we are always curious about new adventures, my favorite photographer and I decided to test the Snooc for you, the “illegitimate child of skiing and sledding” (according to our instructor).
This brand-new activity in the region (the Snooc actually comes from the Alps) is still very niche, so everyone was looking at us strangely during this little initiation, which was quite funny…
The principle is simple: sitting on a seat equipped with shock absorbers, you slide while trying to control your trajectory. To turn, you have to twist your upper torso; to stop, you perform a small skid. The cool thing is that you don’t need any special technical knowledge to practice the Snooc, so it’s aimed at a wide audience, from children to adults… Plus, you quickly get the hang of it, and the runs are soon very fun and provide quite a few thrills. In short, I highly recommend you give the experience a try!
Top Ski Glisse Résidence la glisse Le Pla d’Adet 65170 Saint-Lary departure from the Adet TS every day for 2 «discovery» sessions offered from 4 pm to 5 pm and from 5 pm to 6 pm Price for Snooc rental for 1h: €10 and for 1 day: €29 Discovery pass 1h at the Adet chairlift: €16 (12 to 64 years old) and €12 reduced (child, senior, student)
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Go for a snowshoe outing with a guide
I love snowshoe hiking! I discovered it last year if you remember, when I went to Chamonix.
I find that it’s really a different way to appreciate the mountains in winter, to immerse yourself in the snowy landscapes and get closer to nature. And even if the practice of snowshoe hiking itself does not require special practical knowledge, it does require a decent level of fitness depending on the trails (no need to be an athlete either!).
Since my favorite photographer had never done snowshoeing before, we tested a half-day outing with the Saint-Lary Mountain Sports Office, which I think is quite good for discovering the activity.
Mountain Sports Office 9 Rue de Soulan, 65170 Saint-Lary-Soulan Prices ½ day morning or afternoon €27 / adult and €22 / child (- 12 years old)
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Relax at the Espace Sensoria Rio and the Nuxe Spa
This establishment is the ideal place for a moment of well-being and relaxation after or before a ski session, as well as for those who do not ski.
As for the Espace Sensoria, the place reproduces Spanish canyons with waterfalls, geysers, underwater jets, jacuzzi, sauna, hammam… It is very well done and is a very fun and pleasant place with natural spring water at 32°C.
Espace Sensoria Rio and Spa Nuxe
18 Rue de Soulan, 65170 Saint-Lary-Soulan
Price: €16 adult / €10 child (under 12 years old)
2h access duration_
Visit the Heritage House
This cultural venue which opened in 2017 is worth a little detour for lovers of knowledge and regional cultures like us.
The place is perfect for discovering Pyrenean heritage and rural life through an interactive and fun visit with different museum areas, including a temporary exhibition on the theme of snow.
Heritage House
rue Vincent Mir (Tourist Office square)
Price: €5 adult / €3 children aged 5 to 17
open every day from 2 pm to 7 pm during the winter season (closed Mondays outside of
school holidays)_
Gastronomy and great addresses in Saint-Lary
In terms of gastronomy, the area offers some great local specialties to discover and good products to taste.
I have listed below the few great addresses that I had the opportunity to test on-site (a hotel, some restaurants, and shops to bring back gourmet souvenirs).
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Where to stay? Hotel Mir / La Pergola restaurant
This family-run hotel is located in the very heart of Saint Lary and offers a unique view of the mountains.
Our room
Our room was located at the back of the residence, in a separate building on two floors, so we were very quiet. We were also lucky to have a small balcony with a view of the surrounding mountains, which is always pleasant in the morning when you open your curtains…
Breakfast
Breakfast is served in the hotel restaurant room as a buffet. The fireplace in the center of the room is also very appreciated in winter.
La Pergola Restaurant
The hotel restaurant, La Pergola, offers original dishes based on local products in a charming and warm atmosphere.
Restaurant price: lunch set menu from €13
Hotel Mir / La Pergola Restaurant 25 rue Vincent, 65170 Saint Lary Soulan Room rates: double room from €78 per night
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L’Authentique Restaurant
This restaurant that looks like a mountain chalet is located in Vignes, a small village near Saint-Lary where you will have fewer crowds if you want to leave the hustle and bustle of the resort for a moment.
In the kitchen, chef Laurent Auriau offers a menu based on local products, foie gras and duck terrines, Black Bigorre pork, fresh fish from the mountain streams, and cheese specialties from the valley.
To taste:
- The authentic Aurois burger, from the inhabitants of the Aure valley, in the heart of the Pyrenees (€14)
- The Royal Garbure (a typical soup of the region) with vegetables, duck leg, and pork knuckle (€16)
L’Authentique Restaurant 2 rue principale 65170 Vignec open from 12 pm to 2 pm and from 7:30 pm to 9:30 pm / closed Saturday lunch and Sunday lunch
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The Refuge de l’Oule
This nice, very friendly refuge located at an altitude of 1820 m is accessible to skiers and pedestrians by chairlift, and at lunchtime, there is a joyful summer camp atmosphere. Beware, however, as the crowd can force you to queue for a good half hour depending on the time.
It offers quality dining prepared on-site by chef Lionel Dabat using local products.
To taste:
- The Royal Garbure once again with duck knuckles (€16)
- The house blueberry tart (€5)
Plus, it is located in a very nice area with the Oule Lake right next to it, where I advise you to go for a stroll before or after your lunch.
Refuge de l’Oule 65170 Saint-Lary-Soulan
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Raclette Party at the Hotel Mercure
This 4-star hotel, which houses the Sensoria Spa I mentioned above, offers very nice all-you-can-eat raclette evenings at its restaurant La Mangeroire, which we had the opportunity to test with my favorite photographer.
This is presented as a buffet where you serve yourself cheese and charcuterie. All products are high-quality, and I must say we really enjoyed it!
Hotel Mercure Saint Lary Sensoria 18 Rue de Soulan, 65170 Saint-Lary-Soulan
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Restaurant l’ICC Izard Café Central
This restaurant located in the heart of the village offers fairly classic cuisine in a modern and cozy setting. I particularly recommend that you try the Pyrenean trout fillet with its truffled white butter (€16).
Izard Café Central 59 rue Vincent Mir 65170 Saint-Lary-Soulan
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La ferme Vignécoise, Maison Coustalat
This artisanal cannery of the Upper Aure Valley has belonged to the Coustalat family for over 20 years and offers absolutely exceptional Black Bigorre Pork products. It is a must-stop to bring back some local specialties!
The pro tip: free visit of the Black Bigorre pig farm every Wednesday at 5 pm (no reservation needed)
La Vignécoise 65170 Vignec shop open from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 12 pm and from 2 pm to 7 pm and Sunday from 9 am to 11 am and from 3 pm to 6 pm
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La Maison du Gâteau à la Broche
La Maison du Gâteau à la Broche is open every day and invites you to discover the making of this ancestral cake, to taste it, and obviously to buy a cake to bring back in your suitcase…
La Maison du Gâteau à la Broche 29 Rue des Fougères, 65170 Saint-Lary-Soulan
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La Grange O traditions
This delicatessen offers Pyrenean local products, and you can even find cider from the valley (in the style of Basque Country ciders) made by the owner of the premises. Must try!
La Grange O traditions 29 B Rue des Fougeres, 65170 Saint-Lary-Soulan
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What to pack in your suitcase for skiing?
The struggle when you go skiing and/or to the mountains is that there is always some very specific equipment to bring, which, as a general rule, you only use for that…
The perfect skier’s outfit
- A pom-pom hat of course (in the photos I am wearing a Pipolaki hat, and strangely my dad immediately recognized the brand from my Instagram posts…). Well, at the same time, this hat is just too pretty!!!!!
- A ski outfit: I had a Volcom set with a purple Parka jacket that I love and is very warm (I even took it to Canada), the floral Casco Down Puff Jacket (Snow 2017/18 collection) underneath, and black pants.
- For the ski equipment, either you have your own if you are a true fan, otherwise you do as we do, little amateurs, and rent it on-site… For this, we went to InterSport Saint Lary, because the store is located right next to the departure of the new cable car, which is super convenient (facing the parking lot).
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Our video about this stay in Saint-Lary
Our video (by Nicolas Diolez, my favorite photographer) for the blog, which takes you with us during our getaway in the Pyrenees.
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Thanks to Links Communication, Manu, and the Saint-Lary Tourist Office for this invitation and welcome!
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover or rediscover the Saint-Lary resort, and if you also have your great addresses for this mountain destination in the Pyrenees, do not hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
