Épinal is a city located in the Vosges (in the Grand-Est region), crossed by the Moselle River (a tributary of the Rhine) and surrounded by forests and country lanes. It is also situated in the southern part of the historic and cultural region of Lorraine. It is a small-sized city, nestled in the heart of nature, with a gentle, soothing way of life that I highly recommend for a relaxing and disconnected getaway.
If you want to discover and visit the city of Épinal, I think a 2/3-day weekend is perfect. The city is easily accessible from the Gare de l’Est in Paris by train with a connection in Nancy (allow about 2h50 to 3h30 depending on the trains). It is therefore a great destination for a green escape from the capital. Along with my favorite photographer, we visited Épinal in May 2022 to create this city guide, and I had previously been there for work a few days and for the first time in November 2021.
Table of Contents
What to see and do in Épinal?
Feel free to stroll through the city center of Épinal to discover the local heritage and its pink sandstone buildings. It’s not very big, so exploring it on foot is very easy. Don’t miss the Saint-Maurice Basilica, an 11th/13th-century church located in the heart of Épinal, which features a very beautiful 13th-century portal known as the “bourgeois portal”.
I also recommend going to the House of Cycling (Maison du Vélo) to pick up a brochure and follow a walking tour of the city covering about 20 points of interest. For the rest, I offer a small list below of different places to visit and others that offer fun and original activities to do in Épinal.
Épinal Tourist Office
6 place Saint-Goëry, 88000 Épinal
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Enjoy water activities at the Natur’o center
This water park opened its doors in May 2022, and we were lucky enough to be among the first to discover it! It is the ideal place for lovers of sport, nature, and relaxation. On-site, you can enjoy the whitewater section for canoeing, tubing, kayaking, or rafting. And on the calm water side, you can go canoeing, pedal boating, rent an electric boat, or try paddleboarding.
First, you will need to go to the Port Tourist Office to pick up your entry tickets for the various Natur’o Parc activities. You will then be directed to the GESN canoe club to collect your equipment, including a waterproof wetsuit, which is essential for whitewater activities. My favorite photographer tested the tubing activity, and I can tell you he ended up in the water several times (it’s quite difficult to stay on that thing in whitewater). As for me, I opted for some canoe runs, which are definitely a bit more stable, shall we say… In any case, we had a lot of fun, I must say! To recover from our emotions, we then did a bit of pedal boating on the calm water side.
Good to know: the facility has changing rooms where you can change (I advise you to wear a swimsuit for the activities) and take a shower afterward, and where you can also leave your belongings during the activities.
Base Natur’o
Av. de la République, 88000 Épinal
open only between April and October
Whitewater rates: from €18 for 1 hour for adults and €15 for children
Calm water rates: €15 for one hour of pedal boating / from €25 for one hour of electric boat rental / €10 for one hour of canoe or paddle rental
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Tree climbing at Spinaparc
My favorite photographer and I are quite big fans of tree climbing and also via ferrata. So we were really excited by Spinaparc, which mixes a bit of both. The place offers a sports course in the middle of 5 hectares of forest, with 2.5 km of acrobatic courses in the trees and on the cliffs of an old sandstone quarry. The program includes three secured parks (Little Adventurers up to 6 years old; Kids from 6 years old; Adults from 12 years old) adapted for beginners and experts alike, according to your level and desires.
As for us, we tested the Discovery Course for adults, which already gives a good overview of the park and is accessible to beginners, I would say (if you don’t have a fear of heights, obviously). And for the experts, there is also a Sports Course for the initiated, which looks really very good but which we didn’t have time to test due to time constraints, unfortunately…
Spinaparc
Rue de la 40 Semaine 88000 Épinal
Adult Park rates from €22.05 / group rates from €17.55
Child Park rates from €18.55 / group rates from €16.05
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Visit the Image Museum (Musée de l’Image)
During your stay in Épinal, you must absolutely visit the Musée de l’Image, which presents one of the most important collections of popular printed imagery, not just in Épinal or France, but in the world.
You can discover the permanent exhibition as well as a mini-exhibition on the encyclopedic series Glucq, but also a unique retrospective (the first in France) around the Mexican artist José Guadalupe Posada (which greatly reminded us of our trip to Mexico), a genius of engraving. It was an opportunity for us to discover the inventiveness of this 19th-century artist who put his talent to work for the popular press: illustrations of news items, fairy tales… and the famous Calaveras for which he is celebrated.
Image Museum (Musée de l’Image)
42 quai de Dogneville 88000 Épinal
Temporary exhibition on Posada until 09/18/2022
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Visit the Mudaac, the Departmental Museum of Ancient and Contemporary Art in Épinal
This fine arts and archaeology museum brings together about 33,000 works of art of all kinds and periods, including masterpieces of European painting. It is located at the southern upstream tip of an island formed by two arms of the Moselle River. The current building was remodeled in the 90s with bold architecture featuring multiple volumes.
It is worth the trip for its beautiful collections but also for its interior space, I find, with its transverse glass roof that lets in daylight and its footbridges that offer beautiful views of the various floors of the museum.
Mudaac, Departmental Museum of Ancient and Contemporary Art
1 Place Lagarde, 88000 Épinal
What to see and do around Épinal?
If you have a vehicle (whether by car or bike) and can move around a bit, here are some interesting and sometimes unusual visit ideas in the surroundings of Épinal, all less than 30 minutes away by car and just a few hours away by bike!
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Take a bike ride to Châtel-sur-Moselle
We took a lovely bike ride from our lodge with Vosges-made electric assist bikes from the brand Moustache Bikes (which is a great VAE brand, by the way…). Starting from the Port of Épinal, we took a 17km route (about 1h30) heading to the Fortress of Châtel-sur-Moselle (which I will tell you about just below).
We took the Blue Way V50 (Voie Bleue V50), a bike route laid out along the edge of the Vosges canal. The journey is bucolic and the landscapes are truly very charming. It is also an easy route to cycle because there is very little elevation change. On the way, we passed by the Rotunda of Thaon-les-Vosges, a performance hall with surprising architecture. The Rotunda parks are also a good spot (if you can find a space) for a picnic on the way out or back from your ride, if you are setting out for the day like we were, for example.
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Visit the Castle of the Counts of Vaudemont, Fortress of Châtel-sur-Moselle
The Fortress of Châtel-sur-Moselle (property of the Épinal urban community) is one of the most important witnesses of medieval military architecture in Lorraine. During the visit, you discover the maze of underground rooms and galleries of this fortified site, the ruins of which extend over five hectares. At the beginning of the visit, a scale model presents the original state of this unique monument in Lorraine.
In the hands of the Counts of Vaudémont since 1072, Châtel became the possession of the Lords of Neufchâtel in 1373. It was then at the center of a powerful principality with Burgundian influence. Becoming Lorrain in 1544, the fortress resisted the French invasion during the 30 Years’ War (war of religion and succession) in the 17th century. In 1670, the fortress was besieged by Louis XIV, who then had it dismantled and razed (as in Épinal). The site then fell into oblivion. In the 18th century, a convent was established there. The site was rediscovered in the 1970s, and for 50 years, volunteers have been unearthing the castle, which now allows visitors to explore the old underground passages of the fortress.
And for information, the site is only visited via guided tours by reservation. These are provided by the Old Châtel Association (Association du Vieux Châtel), which has kept the site alive since 1972 with the goal of safeguarding and enlivening the remnants of the local medieval heritage.
The tip: if you don’t want to visit the site from the inside or if you don’t have time, I still recommend, if you are in the area, coming to admire the old ramparts (which extended over 1400 meters) of the fortress along the Moselle River (free access).
Fortress of Châtel-sur-Moselle
8 rue des Capucins 88330 Châtel-sur-Moselle
Rates: guided tour €7 adult / €6 Lorraine Pass / €2 under 12s
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Visit the Féculerie du Moulin Gentrey
I loved the visit to this starch factory (féculerie) nestled in the heart of the Vôge country in the Côney valley, restored and rebuilt to allow people to discover this craft and industry which has now almost disappeared in France. Indeed, before the war of 1870, there were about 300 starch factories in the vicinity following the great industrial boom of the 19th century. Many closed after 1914 and during the Second World War, and the last starch factory in the Vosges closed its doors in 1971. Today, there are only 2 starch factories left in France, and their production is used in food or for the manufacture of medicines.
But what were they making in a starch factory, you might ask? Well, starch (fécule), which is a product extracted from potatoes and used for its binding power in the industry before the appearance of chemical binders. These small starch factories often had a private or peasant cooperative status. This old starch factory has been open to visitors since 2013, and today it is an association that keeps the place alive. During the tour, you can discover the work of the starch factory through the “Path from potato to starch” trail and the history of the Vosges starch industry.
At the end of the tour, we were entitled to a small snack with a slice of pie or cake, accompanied by a hot or cold drink. In addition to tours, the starch factory is also a living place and regularly organizes concerts, events, and finally, it’s a place where you can come to have a drink (local beers) and eat a bite (poutine, munster tartifrite, cakes…).
La Féculerie Les Kemottes du Moulin Gentrey
Moulin Gentrey
1200, le Moulin Gentrey 88240 Harsault-Thunimont
Practical Info: the starch factory is located about 20km from Épinal (allow 30 min by car)
Visit price: €10 (visit + snack) / €5 simple visit
Fridays at 2:30 PM and Sunday afternoons at 3 PM
My favorite spots in Épinal and surroundings
As usual, you will find below my selection of favorite spots in Épinal (an unusual accommodation, a bakery, a brewery, a caterer, and several restaurants) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer. These addresses often offer the chance to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you come to the Vosges.
Some local specialties: all products based on Mirabelle plum; beers from the Épinal brewery (which I tell you about below); to stock up on local products, don’t hesitate to take a tour of the covered market which is located in the city center of Épinal and which is also worth a visit for its original architecture, entirely renovated in 2007.
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Brasserie La Fouillotte
This brewery, which makes craft beers, has been established since 2016 in an old spinning mill, located in a neighborhood a bit far from the center of Épinal, but one that is in full evolution. It was founded by three beer-loving friends who turned their passion into a profession. We took a tour of the brewery during which we discovered the beer-making process, and it obviously ended with a tasting! We were really impressed by the very original beers from the La Fouillotte brewery, which are very fruit-forward without being too sweet for flavored beers.
The brewery produces about 1000 liters of beer per day and 1000 hectoliters per year. It also takes care of creating coasters and other goodies, thanks to a laser cutting machine (you can actually buy their production on-site / €2 per coaster / gift set with 2 bottles + 1 glass + coaster at €20).
The place also functions as a bar, because the brewery wants to generate connection and social cohesion, and it is the ideal place to spend a convivial evening and taste the beers made on-site! My favorites and recommendations to discover: the Saison des Vosges; the Pink Rabbit; Spicy Invaders (with a little chili and bell pepper, a success).
Brasserie La Fouillotte
8 Rue Christophe Denis, 88000 Épinal
The tip: free brewery tour with a brewer on Thursday evenings from 7 PM to 9 PM
Price of draft beers at the bar for on-site consumption: from €3 for 25cl / €4 for 33cl / €6 for 50cl
Bar tip: happy hours from 6 PM to 8 PM on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays with -50% on selected beers and soft drinks!
Price of beers to go: 33cl bottle €3.60 / 3-bottle pack €10 / 12-bottle carton €35 / 24-bottle carton €65
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Colomar Bakery and Pastry Shop
If you are looking for a good bakery in Épinal, I warmly recommend this address located at the gates of the city. We tasted their Lorraine brioche with mirabelle plum and almonds, their moist blueberry cake, their chocolate brioche, and everything was delicious!
Boulangerie Pâtisserie Chocolaterie François Colomar
7 rue Général Haxo 88000 Épinal
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Croustillance Caterer
During our little bike trip, we had picked up our picnic from the Croustillance caterer, located in the vicinity of Châtel-sur-Moselle, and I must say that we really enjoyed it!
Croustillance Caterer
10 Rue de l’Estrey, 88440 Nomexy
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Le Bistrot Gourmand Restaurant
This restaurant is ideally located in the heart of the old town, a stone’s throw from the Saint-Maurice Basilica, the Place des Vosges, and the covered market. It is housed in one of the former outbuildings of the canonical house of Madame de Schauenbourg (1771-1791). I highly recommend sitting on the terrace if weather permits, as it is extremely quiet and has a lot of charm. Laurence and Mark Sweetman, the owners, offer contemporary and generous gastronomy made from carefully selected products.
We tasted: Cod loin cannelloni with homemade smoked trout; Franc-Comtois burger with grilled ham and 24-month aged Comté cheese; chocolate tart or Red berry Pavlova for dessert; discovery of a delicious dry Rhubarb white wine also made in the area (the Blanc des Vosges by Michel Moine).
Le Bistrot Gourmand
5 rue du Chapitre 88000 ÉpinalThe tip: daily menu with appetizer + main course + dessert for €21 / daily special for €11 / bistro formula with appetizer + main course or main course + dessert with a drink for €17.50
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Le Patio Restaurant
This restaurant has a lovely shaded patio where it is very pleasant to eat during the nice season. You can savor traditional, reinterpreted, and creative cuisine with dishes that evolve with the seasons, prepared using fresh and mostly local products.
We tasted: a beer from the La Fouillotte brewery that I told you about earlier; asparagus panna cotta with parmesan crumble (€11.50); beef chuck steak glazed with wine sauce (€18); roasted sole, limoncello and lime sauce with Neapolitan Ebly risotto, green asparagus tips, and beet coulis (€26); for dessert, the vanilla Bavarian cream, banana with rum (€8.50).
Restaurant Le Patio
11 rue de la Calandre 88000 Épinal
Price: market menu at €29 / suggestion menu at €47
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L’Assiette Parlante Restaurant
This address opened recently in Épinal and is located a stone’s throw from the basilica, and its terrace offers a lovely view of the latter. It is a restaurant but also a tea room (you can also come for breakfast or a snack) and a fine grocery store (you can buy some local beers, for example, but also Vosges candies or local terrines). Inside the restaurant, there is a very nice vintage/retro decor. As for the plates, the establishment offers traditional French homemade cuisine at low prices.
We tasted: the tomato, cucumber, basil, and feta gazpacho; leeks in vinaigrette with pickles and crispy bacon; the two-asparagus tartar mimosa style; the homemade palette à la diable (deviled pork shoulder); for dessert, the vine peach sorbet.
L’Assiette Parlante
4 rue Jean-François Pellet 88000 Épinal
open from Tuesday to Friday from 9 AM to 6 PM and Saturday from 10 AM to 6 PM
Price: weekday menu with appetizer + main course + dessert for €16.90 / appetizer + main course or main course + dessert for €14.90 / main course for €11.90
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Peio Pizzeria
If you want to eat a well-made pizza in a colorful atmosphere, I invite you to discover this little pizzeria where I went to eat during my first stay in Épinal in 2021! The owner of Peio is quite a character, and I think you’ll have a very good time there.
Peio Pizzeria
9 Rue de la Maix 88000 Épinal
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Restaurant les Gourman’Dises
As we had a barbecue at the lodge where we were staying (see a little further down), we picked up items to go from the restaurant Les Gourman’Dises, which is located in the center of Épinal. This restaurant offers Savoyard and local specialties on-site (I had actually eaten there during my stay in November 2021), but it also offers catering service if needed and a menu with takeout dishes (no delivery possible, however, but you can take them to go). And it was a really good idea to chill at the lodge and enjoy the small terrace and the barbecue in front of the lodge, because we really enjoyed ourselves!
For the barbecue, we had: beef with coriander and coffee; lamb chops in rosemary cured ham; barbecued pork shoulder; lemongrass, coconut milk, and mustard king prawn skewers; bananas stuffed with chocolate, marshmallows; discovery of another craft brewery in the Vosges, the Brasserie La Madelon.
Restaurant les Gourman’Dises
17 Rue Général Leclerc 88000 Épinal
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La Chaumière Restaurant
This restaurant is located in Chantraine, on the outskirts of the city of Épinal and is run by two Master Restaurateurs (Maîtres Restaurateurs), Jérémy Simon and Damien Dugravot. In a chic setting, the chefs offer traditional but delicate homemade cuisine based on fresh market products. Also note for sunny days: a beautiful hidden terrace at the back of the establishment.
We tasted: snail ravioli (€17); sea bream tartar with lime, ginger, and crispy langoustines (€17); heart of beef fillet cooked with marrow (€27); for dessert, the Royal Hazelnut Chocolate (€9.50).
La Chaumière
89 route des Forges 88000 Chantraine
Price: menus at €36 or €44 / La Chaumière tasting menu at €54
The tip: market menu at €29 (evenings and weekends only) / daily menu with appetizer + main course + dessert on weekday lunchtimes at €21
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Where to stay in peace and quiet in Épinal? The ‘Chalet des Amoureux’ lodge
This lodge is the ideal place for a relaxing and disconnected weekend in Épinal. It is located 4km from the city center, on the edge of the forest, in a setting where nature is omnipresent, and it is beautifully named “The Chalet of Lovers (Chalet des Amoureux)“. It is a truly peaceful and relaxing place, and it’s a perfect little cocoon for a couple’s getaway.
The chalet is super cozy and has a cocooning and warm atmosphere. It is entirely made of Vosges wood in an atypical and original shape, like a small cottage. Inside, the lodge offers a kitchen equipped for preparing your own meals, sleeping quarters upstairs, and a bathroom with WC and shower. Outside, the lodge has a terrace equipped with garden furniture and also a barbecue (which we tested, as you may have read a little higher up).
Practical side:
- You will need a vehicle (car or bike) to get to the lodge, and a space is specifically reserved for parking the car inside the property, next to the chalet.
- Small detail: depending on the operator, mobile reception is very poor (with Free, it was nil), and unfortunately, the Wi-Fi doesn’t work very well. After that, for a disconnection stay, it’s ideal!
Chalet des Amoureux Lodge
140 rue de Bertraménil 88000 Épinal
Rates: from €80 per day for renting the Chalet des Amoureux
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Thanks to Tourisme Épinal and Lolita for organizing this great stay to discover Épinal.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to visit Épinal, and if you have your own favorite spots and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos not free of rights, photographer's authorization mandatory before any use
