Having lived in Bordeaux for a year, I love the Southwest. I don’t know every corner of it, and I had explored the Basque Country a bit more a few years ago, remember (I believe those were almost my first “Travel” articles on the blog). A fortnight ago, I took the train to Dax to return to this region and discover the Landes under the beautiful spring light. This little weekend exploration led me to discover the Landes hinterland with the hills of Chalosse (a region also called the grain basket of the Landes), a small territory located inland, rich in forests and valleys, where they still speak Gascon. I also enjoyed the coastal part of the Landes, alternating between Atlantic beaches and pine forests, a region with a totally different atmosphere centered around activities and concerns related to the ocean.
The region is actually organizing an event across the entire territory from April 2nd to May 2nd, 2016, during the Easter holidays, created in 2005 and titled ‘Le Printemps des Landes’ (Spring in the Landes), which is like a small preview of the summer season, with nearly 500 activities offered throughout the area. This event is truly a ‘bon plan’ in itself! It offers a program of activities, unusual experiences, encounters, shows, and exhibitions, all free or at a very attractive price, for locals but also for tourists passing through.
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Table of Contents
Activity ideas in the Landes hinterland
The House and Archaeo Parc of the Dame de Brassempouy
If you don’t know it yet, I am an archaeologist by training (no, not exactly like Indiana Jones…), so you can imagine that this kind of subject interests me to the highest degree! It was therefore with unrestrained joy that I discovered this house of prehistory and this archaeopark, built around a discovery from the end of the 19th century, the “Dame à la Capuche” (Lady with the Hood) or “Dame de Brassempouy” (Lady of Brassempouy), a small mammoth ivory statuette, known for being one of the oldest human face representations (-23,000 years).
The original of this statuette is also kept at the National Archaeology Museum in Saint-Germain-en-Laye (a city I have already told you about on the blog) of which it is none other than the jewel of the collection. If you are in the area, I highly recommend a quick detour to this site, both to visit the exhibition space showcasing the archaeological information surrounding this discovery of the Grotte du Pape and more generally on prehistoric art, but also to take a quick tour in its ArchaeoParc.
On the ArchaeoParc program: an outdoor trail with life-size reconstructions of prehistoric animals (mammoth, reindeer, giant deer), dwellings, and archaeological experiments throughout the day (fire-starting workshop, flint knapping, spear throwing, etc.).
The ‘Printemps des Landes’ extra: exceptional opening of the site on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 9:30 AM from April 2nd to May 2nd and the possibility of doing a “sculpt your own Lady of Brassempouy” workshop like the Cro-Magnon men, using a flint chisel, in 2 hours (yes, well, they obviously took more than 2 hours, but modern man has no patience, as we know…).
Melle Bon Plan’s tip: if you visit the museum, I also advise you to take a quick tour of the beautiful Romanesque church of Saint-Sernin which is right next door. A must-see, in particular, is the very beautiful hanging keystone of one of the chapels.
House and Archaeo Parc of the Dame de Brassempouy
404 rue du musée 40330 Brassempouy
Open Tuesday to Sunday and holidays from 1:45 PM to 6:00 PM (between February and early July) then every day from 10:45 AM to 7:00 PM during summer holidays
Prices: 11 € / 9.50 € reduced (job seekers, teachers, students, children from 5 to 15 years old) / 1 extra workshop 3 €, 5 € for 2 workshops
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Association Les Ateliers de Brousteau
At the head of this concept and this place is a radiant woman, Agnès Galletier, former journalist and writer, trained in coaching methods for mediation activities. It is in a 17th-century former farmhouse that Agnès and her husband completely renovated, the Domaine de Brousteau, that she hosts the association’s activities, in a superb place with unique heritage and a soothing aura.
On the program for the Brousteau workshops: painting, singing, writing, botany, etc. These workshops are offered to children as well as adults, but also for seniors, for people in difficulty or with disabilities, and these activities are also offered in partnership with associations and social, educational, and therapeutic institutions.
Ateliers de Brousteau L.D. Le Château, 1003 Route de Castaignos 40330 Marpaps
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Api Sens, organic cosmetics from hive to skin
The Api Sens brand was born from the partnership between David, a beekeeper, and Maryline, who works in the cosmetics sector. Together, they launched an organic range combining the benefits of honey and Propolis and they master all the steps, from research to manufacturing, including distribution! A great local product idea to bring back from your vacation, not to mention the ‘bon plan’ as these are organic and quality products sold almost without intermediaries, so at a very attractive price.
Api Sens 153 chemin de Crestian 40330 Gaujacq
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My favorite addresses in the Landes hinterland
Hotel La Petite Couronne
This hotel is located in Saint-Cricq-Chalosse in the Landes hinterland. You are very well welcomed there by Iwan and his wife Nancy, both from the Netherlands, who opened their establishment in 2009. It is now labeled with a European Eco Label certification. A small glass of Floc de Gascogne to start the stay, followed by a quick dip in the great outdoor spa, and you feel perfectly fine! In the morning, breakfast is served in the building right next to the pool, and the beautiful terrace allows you to get out in the sun during the summer season.
The extra: the dutchtub spa, an ecological outdoor bath heated by a wood fire, ideal for a period with temperatures that are not yet very mild.
Hotel La Petite Couronne Route d’Amou 40700 Saint-Cricq-Chalosse Price: between 78 and 95 € per room for 1 person (depending on the season) and between 89 and 110 € per room for 2 people (depending on the season) with breakfast included
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L’Auberge du Laurier
This inn, open for 2 years, is located right next to the Hotel La Petite Couronne and is managed by the same couple as the hotel, in collaboration with the chef Nabil Lazri.
To taste:
- The semi-cooked Foie gras (you must take advantage of it if you like this product, because you are in the ideal region to taste quality on that side) from ferme Guilhem with a rhubarb compote.
- The famous artisanal black pudding from Labarthe, pan-fried with its coconut bean puree. Strangely, this black pudding reminded me more of the Scottish black pudding, discovered during my trip to the Inverness region, than the traditional black pudding.
- Risotto with large prawns and asparagus (here too a vegetable very present in this regional cuisine), with a rocket coulis.
- The revisited Paris-Brest, choux with pine nuts, matcha tea butter cream.
- The brioche French toast with strawberries with a rhubarb ice cream from the farm.
- The homemade iced nougat with a blackcurrant coulis and an almond tuile.
Auberge du Laurier 1459, route d’Amou 40700 Saint-Cricq-Chalosse Price: menu formula with appetizer + main course + dessert at 29 € / child menu at 18 €
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The Hotel Restaurant du Commerce in Amou
This family address (hotel and restaurant) has been run by the Darracq family since the mid-19th century, and the institution has been passed down from generation to generation since then.
To taste:
- The white asparagus in vinaigrette (11 €), one of the flagship products of the region as I told you above.
- If you want to eat specialties, I highly recommend choosing the “Marlus” country plate, which contains grilled foie gras, duck breast, duck tenders, confit, hearts and gizzards, plus extra porcini mushrooms (+5 €) for enthusiasts.
- The porcini mushroom cassolette with persillade (15 €), which was just sublime too.
- For dessert, I tried the homemade apple croustade (6 €), it smelled wonderful like flambéed alcohol and I didn’t regret it.
- The roasted pineapple, mango sorbet (7 €) for a little lightness at the end of the meal.
Price: “Marlus” country plate menu at 26 € with the plate + a dessert + a glass of Chalosse wine.
The extra: for sale at the counter, the old-fashioned Landes Pastis (a type of brioche) from Ducazaux, a must-try during your stay!
Hotel Restaurant Le Commerce Place de la Poste 40330 Amou
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Activity ideas on the Landes coast
Taking up surfing or coastal rescue
Impossible to come to the region without trying to discover one of the water sports practiced in the Landes. It is obviously a well-known place for surfing and certainly one of the best spots to try a little initiation. Personally, I realized that I might not be really made for practicing this sport, not feeling particularly comfortable in the Ocean, but I am not unhappy to have tried it and this little photo remains as a souvenir (and proof!) of this moment, which was not glorious for me, I have to admit…
Another sport widely practiced in the region is Coastal Rescue, which even counts a world champion in this discipline among its inhabitants, Emmanuelle Bescheron, who then created her own structure, Océan Incentive.
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Drink Landes beer at the Maison Hapchot
This craft brewery produces Hossegor beer on-site. If you go directly to the brewery, you will have the opportunity to taste the different beers of this Landes brand (a white, a blonde, and an amber) but also to get a very interesting little explanation on its manufacturing and a quick tour of the place. It can also be a good idea for a little local specialty to bring back in your luggage…
Brasserie Hapchot 96 avenue des Couteliers 40150 Soorts-Hossegor Price: 2.50 € per glass of draft beer_
My favorite addresses on the Landes coast
The Natural Surf Lodge
This Landes farmhouse in the heart of nature has been transformed into an eco-responsible surf camp by Claire and Stéphane, who have turned the famous “letting go,” which surfers are specialists in and which we all (or almost all) would like to have, into an art form. This place with a very ‘roots’ atmosphere offers, in addition to accommodation, organizing yoga classes on-site for a gentle muscle wake-up before a surf session, for example. We come here mainly to take surf lessons, because the Landes region is the perfect place to do a surf initiation as I was telling you above, accompanied by certified specialists, of course.
Natural Surf Lodge 40510 Seignosse The 'Printemps des Landes' extra: Natural Surf Lodge organizes test sessions to discover surfing Price: surf and yoga formula from 515 € /week with accommodation and surf + yoga lessons
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Restaurant Nina de la plage
This restaurant by the beach is the ideal place to sunbathe and get a cure of sea air, while tasting a good little dish.
To taste:
- The Tahitian-style sea bream tartare (16.90 €), super fresh, perfect when it’s a bit hot.
- The Séguin salad with hot goat cheese toasts, tomato, bacon and apples (16 €).
- A small gourmet coffee to finish the meal well, it’s always nice.
Restaurant Nina de la Plage boulevard François Mitterrand, 40130 Capbreton_
I hope that with all this, I will have made you want to discover or rediscover the Landes region, and if you also have your own favorite addresses and ‘bons plans’ in the Landes, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Melle Bon Plan Photos not free of rights, photographer's authorization mandatory before any use
