The Gers is clearly the land of the Gascons. But where do the names Gascon and Gascony come from? That’s the question I asked myself throughout our stay there… And I got the answer thanks to Elsa, the super guide who helped us discover the city of Auch. In reality, the word comes from the Vascons, a barbaric people (well, according to Rome) who invaded the region around 580. And then, the pronunciation of the name shifted to give us the current name (yes, I know, we’ll all go to bed a little smarter tonight).
But let’s get back to our sheep black pigs; the Gers department is located south of the Garonne and north of the Pyrenees, halfway between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, 1 hour west of Toulouse in the heart of the Occitanie region. It’s a territory that is particularly enjoyable to discover by car to make the most of its landscapes: vineyards, plains, and valleys. And that’s what we did last summer with my favorite photographer during a short road trip through this beautiful region of the southwest.
To get to the Gers from Paris, the easiest way is still to fly to Toulouse (about 1 hour 15 minutes) and then rent a car at the airport. Unless, of course, you’re in a slow travel mindset, in which case the train option will take you about 5 hours. From experience, having traveled the Occitanie region a lot lately, it is a region that is very poorly served by train, unlike the PACA region for example.
There are some really cheap flights with EasyJet in particular, but be aware that you might risk last-minute cancellations (which happened to us on this trip). Consequently, we stayed 2 extra days at EasyJet’s expense in Toulouse waiting for our new flight… In short, this adventure alone could be the subject of an article, and I am seriously considering writing a special article on “tips and tricks for flying.”
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Table of Contents
Things to see and do in the Gers
Here are all my suggestions for visits and activities to enjoy during your stay in the Gers. I am taking you to the few towns and villages of the department that we visited during our road trip. The Gers is a department of tradition, and you have to immerse yourself in its culture and share the easygoing good mood of its inhabitants to get a feel for its mentality and essence.
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Visit the capital of the Gers department: Auch
This ancient Gallo-Roman city has been important in the region since the Middle Ages, as it has been the seat of the archdiocese since the 9th century (meaning an important seat of power for Christianity and a stop on the Way of Saint James). It is also the most populous city in the department with its 23,000 inhabitants and is the capital of Gascony. It is crossed by the Gers river, which gives its name to the department.
You have to walk through the narrow streets to see the heyday of the medieval city come alive, which still retains some of these small passages, such as the pousterles (typical of the city and which reminded me of the traboules in Lyon), steeply sloped and stepped alleyways that connected the city center to the river below.
The pro tip: at 22 rue d’Espagne, you have to push the door to admire the Renaissance-style inner courtyard (it is said, according to legend, to be a house where Henry IV, Queen Margot, and Catherine de’ Medici stayed in 1578).
You absolutely must see the gothic Sainte-Marie Cathedral, which houses magnificent stained glass by Arnaud de Moles (16th century) and the 113 carved oak choir stalls from the 16th century (free tour by entering the cathedral choir / price €2).
There are also free organ concerts in summer in the cathedral on Sundays at 6 p.m. This cathedral is a major site on the Way of Saint James.
Another piece of advice: you can walk down the 19th-century monumental staircase to see the statue of d’Artagnan (the most famous Gascon), captain of the King’s Musketeers. This staircase was designed to connect the upper town to the lower town. And you will also have a beautiful view of the surroundings from there. Don’t hesitate to visit the Grand Auch Tourist Office, Heart of Gascony (3 place de la République) and explore its visitor space with temporary exhibitions, swings, and free restrooms (yes, they can always come in handy!).
Cathedral guided tour (or city center): 1h30 / €6 adult, €4 reduced, €2 under 18 and free for under 6s City guided tour with a tour guide: 1h15 / €5 adult, €2.50 reduced and free for under 18s Also try: the "Auch sens dessus-dessous" tour, a sensory tour Booking at +33562052289
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Visit the village and castle of Lavardens
In the heart of Gascony, classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France, this village is located at the top of a rocky outcrop, and its castle dates from the 12th and 17th centuries. It also has very lovely medieval alleys that are very pleasant to stroll through…
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Visit of the Château de Lavardens (with temporary exhibitions)
This castle, now a listed Historic Monument, was the stronghold of the Counts of Armagnac in the 12th century. It was later rebuilt in the 17th century by Antoine de Roquelaure, Marshal of France and friend of King Henry IV. Its position is perfect, as it overlooks the Gers countryside. It is now an art center in Gascony and is also open to visitors.
To see: the very beautiful original ochre and brick pavements in the castle halls, and the venue also hosts two major exhibitions per year.
Château de Lavardens 32360 Lavardens Prices: €7 adult / €3.50 job seeker and student / free for under 16s Open every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. in July and August (check for the rest of the year)
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Where to eat in Lavardens? Restaurant du Château
This restaurant is ideally located right at the foot of the Château de Lavardens. I recommend trying a plate of foie gras here, as you are visiting a specialist. The venue offers family-style and local cuisine with good local products. If the weather permits, I advise you to have lunch on the establishment’s charming little terrace.
Restaurant du Château Place de l’Eglise 32360 Lavardens
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The Tempo Latino Festival
This festival has been held every year in Vic-Fezensac for 20 years (the first edition took place during the summer of 1994). All the big names in Afro-Cuban music perform there, with artists from all continents. Every evening, concerts take place in the bullring (a high place of the city that has existed since 1931). We were lucky enough to see a neo-tango concert last year with Plaza Francia Orchestra (artists Müller & Makaroff) during the festival’s 25th anniversary.
Outside of the concerts in the arena, the entire city transforms at the time of the festival, and dance floors are improvised everywhere. You truly get the impression of being in the Caribbean, and there is an incredible atmosphere! In any case, if you are passing through the region at the time of the festival, it would be a shame to miss it! There is also the possibility to take dance classes on site at the Mambo Studio (€12 / hour) for those interested.
The pro tip: the pass and evening tickets exclusively give access rights to the concerts in the arena for the duration of the festival, but you can very well come to enjoy the atmosphere of the festival in the city streets to dance without taking a concert ticket!
My advice: You will have trouble finding parking near the city center, so it is better to park a little on the outskirts of the city and walk to the heart of the festival; furthermore, it will also be easier to leave the city when you want to leave.
Festival Tempo Latino from July 26 to 28, 2019 Prices: 3-day pass €85 / evening ticket between €32 and €45
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Great addresses and gastronomy in the Gers
In this section, I will give you both some good addresses related to gastronomy (vineyards, farms) and also share with you the restaurant and accommodation addresses that we tested with my favorite photographer during our stay. In terms of gastronomy, you will be well served in the Gers, because it is a department of gourmets and good livers, as they say!
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Where to eat, where to sleep? Charming inn Le Florida
This magnificent address is located in a beautiful country house in the heart of the village of Castéra-Verduzan, a small spa town in the Gers. Initially, this place was a family inn founded in 1935. It is now run by Baptiste Ramouneda (great-grandson) of the founder Angèle, and it is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful addresses in the Gers!
On one hand, it is a high-end boutique hotel with very refined rooms. The owners have a certain taste for decor, and the antiques collected and mixed with contemporary pieces have the best effect. When we went, the establishment offered 2 rooms (including one with a private spa which we were able to enjoy) decorated with great taste, but it has since expanded with 2 new rooms.
Our sublime room:
Furthermore, the gourmet restaurant of the venue is an essential stop during your visit to Le Florida. The chef, Marc Abramovici, creates cuisine of breathtaking finesse and great creativity. Our dinner there was truly one of the memorable moments of our stay!
A little extra: the magnificent terrace where it is very pleasant to eat during sunny days.
The gift: among the bathroom amenities, the hotel offers samples of toothpaste from the laboratoire Odost Buccotherm, which is actually based in Castéra-Verduzan. I thought it was a great initiative to promote businesses from the village.
Hotel rates: from €155
Restaurant rates: chef’s carte blanche menu in 6 courses €65 / + €15 for pairings with 4 glasses of wine
The restaurant pro tip: lunch menu from Wednesday to Friday, starter + main course + dessert for €19
Auberge Le Florida 2 rue du Lac 32410 Castéra-Verduzan
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The Domaine du Grand Comté vineyard
This place is the perfect spot to discover the wines and spirits of the region in this family vineyard of the Baylac family, which is over 150 years old. It produces IGP Côtes de Gascogne wines, but also Floc de Gascogne aperitif and Armagnac, as well as Blanche d’Armagnac. It was also an opportunity to discover Armagnac (the name actually comes from the local Counts of Armagnac family), because the Gers is the territory for this distilled alcohol. It is also one of the oldest wine spirits produced in the Southwest (AOP since 1936).
On-site, you also have to taste the Côtes de Gascogne wines (white, rosé, and red) produced in the region, and the Floc de Gascogne, which is a Gascon recipe created in the 16th century, a mixture of fresh grape juice and young Armagnacs. Locals love having this as an aperitif. So you absolutely must try it if you are passing through the region.
Domaine du Grand Comté 32810 Roquelaure Open every day from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., visit and tasting without appointment
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The Ferme de Bidache
This farm, run by a very endearing young couple, Audrey and Benoit, strives to conserve the breed of Gascon black pigs. You can visit them to see the pigs in their meadows, tour the farrowing house, or even taste and buy their preserves, charcuterie, and meat, all of which is processed on-site.
Here, the pigs are born on the farm and are raised for about 14 months in the 20 hectares of meadows on the property, in the shade of the oak trees. For information, the Gascon Pig is a local endangered species. Indeed, it almost disappeared because this species was “not profitable enough” for industrial farming and supermarkets. Fortunately, in Occitanie and in the Gers in particular, some small farmers continue to perpetuate this breed with undeniable gustatory qualities!
Ferme de Bidache Lieu dit « Bidache » 32410 Castera-Verduzan Open all year from Tuesday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.
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Ferme de Las Crabères, fatty duck producer
Nicole and Francis Mauco welcomed us to their farm, a small operation that has existed for several generations. The ducks live outdoors, are force-fed only with local corn produced on the farm in a traditional way, and are killed and processed on-site in their lab. The farm is also open to visitors.
I must say that even for me, who is not a vegetarian and who loves foie gras, the tour of the farm was a bit harsh at times, but I think it is important to see the production conditions of the food we eat. Moreover, I remain convinced, in a very personal way obviously, that the improvement of animal treatment conditions will come rather from the reduction of consumption and mass production, via a return to small local, human-scale productions. And that is exactly the case here. Fatty poultry (geese and ducks) are part of the festive products and the gastronomic image of the Gers. Furthermore, foie gras has existed in Gascony since the 16th century! These are therefore very local specialties (foie gras, magret, confit).
Product range: foie gras, confits, prepared dishes (duck breast stuffed with foie gras, stuffed neck, cassoulet, garbure, pâtés, chili con canard…)
Ferme de Las Crabère Route de Toulouse 32600 l'Isle-Jourdain
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Restaurant Hôtel l’Échappée Belle
This restaurant, located in the hôtel l’Echappée Belle in l’Isle Jourdain, offers a “new brasserie” inspired menu created by a young Gers chef, Thierry Lair, who revisits the great classics of French gastronomy by working with regional and seasonal products. For sunny days, the small terrace/patio at the back of the establishment is very pleasant and perfectly shaded. I recommend it in summer.
Restaurant Hôtel l’Échappée Belle 2 place Gambetta 32600 l'Isle Jourdain restaurant open every day from 12 p.m. to 2 p.m. and from 7:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. The pro tip: the l'air du temps menu served at lunch except Sundays and public holidays with starter + main course + dessert for €19 / dish of the day + gourmet coffee €16
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Where to sleep near Lavardens? Domaine de Mascara bed and breakfast
This B&B, located not far from the town of Lavardens that I mentioned above, is run by Jean-Paul and Nanou, an absolutely charming couple who welcomed us as if we were family in their large country house.
The place is idyllic, and their house, installed in an old Gers farmhouse, does not lack charm! We were able to enjoy their beautiful park, as well as their lovely swimming pool with a terrace, a particularly pleasant place to have breakfast during sunny days.
Domaine de Mascara Bed and Breakfast 32360 Lavardens Rate for our Paguere room: €77 for 2 people (breakfast included)
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Thanks to José-Louis Pereira and the Destination Gers Departmental Tourism Committee for this beautiful welcome in their department.
I hope that with all this I have made you want to discover the Gers, and if you too have your own favorite addresses and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Find all my articles on the Gers department in the Occitanie region below:
⇒ All my articles on the Gers
⇒ All my articles on Occitanie
MY ARTICLES ON THE GERS
⇒ Summer road trip (2018)
⇒ Autumn road trip (2019)
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free; photographer authorization is required before any use
