Located in Eastern France in the Doubs department (Bourgogne Franche-Comté region), Montbéliard, also known as the “City of Princes,” which I was visiting for the first time, reconnects with its Germanic roots every year to celebrate Advent. This historic land of the Counts of Württemberg, situated between present-day Switzerland and the Jura mountains, has inherited centuries-old traditions and the magical spirit of the Christkindlmärkte. Here, authenticity is the guiding theme of the year-end festivities, with a great sense of shared conviviality. In this article, I want to share my experience at the Lights and the Christmas market in the Pays de Montbéliard, which we visited in December 2023 with my favorite photographer and a few fellow bloggers!
Practical Information
- Getting there by train from Paris: allow about 2 hours and 15 minutes from Paris to reach the Belfort-Montbéliard TGV station (which is a station shared between Belfort and Montbéliard, and you can then take a shuttle to reach the city center of Montbéliard).
- Getting there by plane: Montbéliard is 50 minutes from the Basel-Mulhouse airport.
Table of Contents
What to see and do in Montbéliard?
Below, as usual, I suggest a small selection of things to do and see if you come for a stay in Montbéliard or the surrounding region. The town is quite small, and you can easily get around on foot. During your wanderings, you cannot miss the essential Castle of the Dukes of Württemberg. The city is also known for being the stronghold of Peugeot, the Lion brand.
_
Visit the 19 CRAC (Regional Center for Contemporary Art)
This Regional Center for Contemporary Art is housed in an industrial-style building from the 1920s and presents 3 to 4 exhibitions per year. Furthermore, the 19 Crac presents meetings and activities throughout the year based on its exhibitions. During our visit in December 2023, we discovered the exhibition “Do it yourself if you’re not happy,” focused on a micro-publishing house that has been publishing fanzines since 1999. These magazines, created by fans (illustrators and editors), exist in every field and are often produced in very limited runs.
After visiting the exhibition, we participated in a Do It Yourself workshop, focusing on an introduction to the art of home-printed media. We let our creative spirits speak, and each of us made our own little fanzine that we were able to take with us (in both original and reduced versions)! For the creation of our fanzine, we had access to photocopies, screen printing, pens, glue, and we shaped our own personal fanzine.
19 CRAC (Regional Center for Contemporary Art)
Exhibition “Do it yourself if you’re not happy” until January 14, 2024
Open Tuesday to Saturday from 2 PM to 6 PM and Sunday from 3 PM to 6 PM
Great tip : free admission
_
Go to the Pays de Montbéliard Tourist Office
Do not hesitate to go to the city’s Tourist Office to pick up some documentation on the Pays de Montbéliard. As a bonus, the office’s shop also sells 100% Pays de Montbéliard products, crafted by creators and artisans: verquelure (a fabric whose origin dates back to the Middle Ages, appearing as a simple canvas or damask where the classic design was formed by two or three-colored squares / it had disappeared and was relaunched in 2018 during the Christmas Lights), diairi (the region’s traditional headpiece, a cap that once covered the bun of women in the Pays de Montbéliard), “Montbéliard cow” souvenirs, guides and books on the region, Peugeot products, and also some local gourmet products (snails, beers…).
Montbéliard Tourist Office
1 rue Henri Mouhot 25200 Montbéliard
Lights and Christmas market in Montbéliard
Every year, the city of Montbéliard transforms for a month into a fairy-tale kingdom and hosts one of the most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe (it was voted the 5th most beautiful market in Europe in 2021) with approximately 500,000 visitors present during this period. Indeed, the tradition of Christmas markets is very deeply rooted in the region because it dates back to the city’s German past (which was actually German until the French Revolution) and its Germanic heritage. The Montbéliard Christmas market as it exists today was relaunched in 1987. Since 1992, the city has also lit up with magnificent illuminations during this holiday period. In 2023, the guest of honor for this 37th edition is the Provence region.
The heart of the Christmas market, renowned for the quality of its craftsmanship, is located around the Saint-Martin temple and brings together about 170 carefully selected artisans from various regions and nationalities. You will also find it at Square Sponek and Place Velotte. Finally, do not miss admiring the Christmas Lights: the program includes arches, scrolls, garlands, and other luminous adornments that make the city sparkle at nightfall.
Also to do at the Christmas market: enjoy a mulled wine (there are also hot fruit juice versions without alcohol that looked very nice); have a chat with Tante Airie (the good fairy of the Pays de Montbéliard) so she can tell you her story and the tales of the region; meet the local artisans and producers.
The great tip: the Christmas Pass which offers 3 sweet or savory tastings as well as a glass of hot drink with partner artisans (price €8 / for sale at the Tourist Office or at the office’s chalet at the Christmas market).
The Christmas Lights of Montbéliard
From November 25 to December 23, 2023
The Lights will also be present in the city until January 6, 2024
_
Eat a fondue at the Christmas market
The winter period is obviously the time to eat fondues, raclettes, and all those delicious comfort foods! At the Christmas market, don’t miss the small fondue chalet (which isn’t necessarily a Franche-Comté fondue, therefore made with local cheeses, because since it’s too cold outside, unfortunately, other cheeses more appropriate for the outdoor temperature must be used). At Juju’s, the fondue is eaten outside, but sheltered in a chalet. And between the warmth of the fondue and the small auxiliary heaters, I found it quite comfortable. It’s very convivial, and besides, we were served very quickly.
La Fondue à Juju Chalet / Christmas Market
Rue de l’Ecole Française / stand 143
_
The Christmas market ice rink
Don’t hesitate to try ice skating in the heart of the city; you will rediscover your inner child. It had been years since I put on skates, but I admit we really had a great time and most of all, we had a lot of fun!
Christmas Ice Rink in Montbéliard
Place Denfert-Rochereau
Open from November 25, 2023, to January 6, 2024
Rates: €5 per session (from 4 years old) / gloves mandatory (for safety reasons)
_
The Santa Claus Train
Taking the train in the company of Santa Claus is possible in Montbéliard thanks to the association Autorail X2800 du Haut-Doubs. All aboard: Santa Claus meets us at the station to let us discover his authentic 1960s railcar. It’s an opportunity to get to the Montbéliard Christmas market in an original way from the Besançon-Viotte station. And if you are not starting from Besançon, you can also just go wait for the train’s arrival at the Montbéliard station to have the chance to catch a glimpse of Santa Claus and his elves.
The Santa Claus Train
Departure from Besançon-Viotte
Several dates in December
_
Do some local and gourmet shopping at the Christmas market
The Pays de Montbéliard actively contributes to the fame of Franche-Comté gastronomy with its cheeses and its famous PGI Montbéliard sausage. So, don’t hesitate to take a walk along the gourmet (and other) aisles to taste local products and perhaps do some shopping for the holidays, as we did!
_
Where to buy a good Montbéliard sausage? Maison Barbier
Produced since the 14th century, this regional specialty is made by smoking in a “tuyé” (chimney). I advise you to eat it topped with cancoillotte (see below for where to buy some). I recommend you get your supplies at Maison Barbier, a butcher, charcuterie, and caterer in Pont-de-Roide, which makes great products! We left with 4 Montbéliard sausages (even though we only wanted two at the start, but the vendor was able to convince us and we didn’t regret it once back home!).
Maison Barbier
_
Where to buy good cheese? Fromagerie Lehmann
The Pays de Montbéliard is located in the appellation zone of Comté, this raw milk cheese made in the Jura mountains, but it is also a land of Morbier and cancoillotte, this creamy, low-fat cheese. This artisanal cheese dairy specializes in the manufacture of cancoillottes, but it also offers Franche-Comté cheeses and dairy products.
We bought: 18-month Comté; Bleu de Gex; local tomme; Morbier…
Fromagerie Lehmann
_
Where to buy snails? Maison Jacot Billey
This house is an artisanal cannery based in Fesches-le-Châtel since 1935. Historically specialized in Burgundy snails, the cannery also offers prepared dishes, spreads for aperitifs, and delicious Franche-Comté recipes put into “Jacote jars” by the artisanal cannery La Maison de Jacote. They manufacture the last traditional Burgundy snails using 100% local snails. I also recommend you taste the Fromentines, a savory treat for aperitifs based on snails (a crispy shell made of wheat flour filled with a snail), which I personally adore!
Maison Jacot Billet
_
Where to buy local honey? Les Miels de Franche-Comté
This family farm consisting of a thousand hives positioned in Franche-Comté is managed by professional and passionate beekeepers.
Les Miels de Franche-Comté
_
Where to buy Cancoillotte? Chez Piguet Gastronomie
At this stand, you will find Franche-Comté salt and the essential PGI cancoillotte, constantly revisited by Fabrice Piguet, a former chef who worked in a starred establishment for many years. I highly recommend you stop by his chalet to discover his cancoillottes, which we really found excellent! He offers plenty of super original recipes like cancoillotte with morels, Montbéliard sausage, Vin Jaune, wild garlic, Burgundy truffles…
Piguet Gastronomie
_
Where to buy some sweets? Chocolat Ragot
This chocolate factory has been based in Montbéliard since 1979. It notably offers “Emma’s little bears” (named after the chocolatier’s daughter), marshmallow bears coated in chocolate, to be dipped in a good hot chocolate from Ragot as well.
Chocolat Ragot
15 Rue de Belfort, 25200 Montbéliard
My good addresses in Montbéliard
As usual, you will find below my selection of good addresses in Montbéliard (one accommodation and several restaurants or gourmet spots) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer and our blogger friends. These addresses often offer the chance to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you come to Franche-Comté.
_
A pastry / chocolate shop in Montbéliard? Maison Debrie
This family and artisanal house with strong values, founded in 1976, is a very nice address in Montbéliard. It is a chocolate shop, a pastry shop, a caterer, and also a tea room. The house is now run by Jean-Christophe, the son of the master pastry chef and chocolatier Jean-Pierre Debrie who opened the shop, to whom he succeeded in 2014. He is also accompanied in this adventure by his wife Emanuela. Maison Debrie makes its own cocoa paste to create its chocolates, and everything here is made by hand with exceptional products.
During our visit to Maison Debrie, we had the chance to take a Christmas workshop during which we made a “mendicant tree” with the help of the chef. The shop offers private workshops on request (small group, no more than 6 people) throughout the year.
Maison Debrie, chocolate shop, pastry shop, and caterer
20 Rue de Velotte, 25200 Montbéliard
_
A restaurant/board game bar in Montbéliard? Chez Marcus
Opened at the end of 2019, this restaurant and board game bar is an address with very high likeability. Marc, a board game enthusiast, created this place to allow people to gather around a table to eat good tartines and shareable platters, all while playing! The space is sober but well laid out, and the tables are spaced far enough apart that you can play and have fun without bothering your neighbors. Regarding games, the choice is quite vast, and we set our sights on the famous Code Names (which we already knew with the favorite photographer), which is a classic of the genre. As for food, we also really enjoyed it. It’s simple and comforting, and everything is made with good, mainly organic, local products.
We tasted: some fromentines to share as an appetizer (€8.90 for 6); garlic and herb tartinettes with smoked trout, mandarin, and red onions (€9.90); for the tartines, we tested the Merry Christmas tartine with potatoes, Montbéliard sausage, Comté, Morbier, and raclette (€14.90); for the crôute (a traditional Franche-Comté recipe based on fresh mushrooms in a cream sauce and grilled bread), we had the one with mushrooms, morels, and Comté (€19.90).
Chez Marcus
20 Rue des Halles, 25200 Montbéliard
Price: “crôutes” between €17.90 and €19.90 / tartines between €12.90 and €14.90 / desserts between €4.90 and €8.50 / child’s menu €9.90 / wines by the glass between €3.90 and €7.90 / cocktails between €6.90 and €8.90
_
Where to have lunch in Montbéliard? Les Bains Douches restaurant
This restaurant, which has already existed for 10 years, is installed in the former city baths. This gives it a quite unique atmosphere and decor, since elements of this historic building have been kept inside the restaurant. The open kitchen facing the entrance of the place offers a direct view of the team busy at work. The address offers seasonal cuisine made with fresh products.
We tasted: for starters, the snail and Vin Jaune puff pastry (€15.50) and the pumpkin velouté, smoked oyster mushrooms, and pan-seared foie gras (€15.50); as a main course (but which also exists as a starter), the morel and aged Comté risotto (€28); another main course with Bresse chicken with truffle and Vin Jaune (€34).
Les Bains Douches Restaurant
4 Rue Charles Contejean, 25200 Montbéliard
Price: menus starting at €38.50 / starters à la carte between €14 and €19.50 / main courses à la carte between €26.50 and €34 / desserts à la carte between €8 and €12.50 / wines by the glass between €6 and €8.50
_
Where to stay in Montbéliard? Hôtel La Balance
This 3-star hotel with authentic charm is located in one of the oldest houses in Montbéliard, which dates back to 1559 and has been mentioned as a hotel since at least 1744. The hotel has also hosted many historic figures, including the composer Tchaikovsky and General De Lattre De Tassigny, who made it his headquarters during the war. The hotel offers 45 rooms, singles, doubles, or family rooms, including 2 specially designed for people with reduced mobility. It is part of The Originals hotel chain, an establishment of which we had already discovered this year in Montluçon with the favorite photographer.
As for breakfast, the large hall in which it is served is the former ballroom. For the holidays, it was decorated in a cozy and comforting Christmas atmosphere. Breakfast is offered in a buffet format with a nice variety of products and a notable effort made on a selection of local products (a detail to which I am still very attached). In short, I recommend this hotel, especially during this holiday period, because it is totally in line with the cocooning spirit of December.
Hôtel La Balance
40 Rue de Belfort, 25200 Montbéliard
Room rates starting from €70 (+€14 breakfast)
_
Thank you to the Pays de Montbéliard Tourist Office and Emilie from the AirPur Agency, as well as to Adrien for organizing this great stay to discover Montbéliard. If you want to know more about the destination, don’t hesitate to check out the articles by my fellow travel bloggers, le blog de Lili, Poulette Blog and Mummy Fast.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to visit Montbéliard, and if you, too, have your own good addresses and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
