La Baule is a place that feels a bit out of time, lost between the traces of 19th-century tourism with its magnificent villas built when the railway first arrived, and the concrete residences of 20th-century family tourism. However, this reductive vision of the seaside resort is only one aspect of La Baule, which actually owes its name to a spelling error—it was originally supposed to be called “la Bôle,” which means “marshy area”… A name much less glamorous than the resort’s current image…
The town’s fame also owes a lot to its natural environment, the scent of its maritime pines, its 9 km of beach and its bay, which is among the most beautiful in the world, its beautiful Belle Époque villas, but also its salt marshes in the heart of the Brière Regional Natural Park. Another peculiarity: this culturally Breton territory is today administratively attached to the Loire-Atlantique department. Yet, you can clearly feel a Breton wind blowing through the traditions and gastronomy of the region. In this article, I offer you a selection of things to do in La Baule, as well as my selection of great addresses for hotels and restaurants, along with a few tips for discovering the town, all embellished with beautiful photos (I am completely objective) by my favorite photographer.
_
Table of Contents
Touring the town and discovering the beautiful villas of La Baule by bike
This is certainly the best way to discover the town. This tour organized by the La Baule Tourist Office is a must-do if you are visiting for the first time. You get a quick tour of the resort (which can help you get your bearings later) and it also allows you to discover the main outlines of La Baule’s history. During the summer season, the La Baule Tourist Office offers discovery tours of different neighborhoods in La Baule with various themes, on foot or by bike (be careful, however, bikes are not provided).
Bike tours Price: 7€ per person / 3€ for 6-12 year olds / free for children under 6 Reservation required at the La Baule Tourist Office, at the counters or online from July 13 to August 26, 2016 8 Place de la Victoire, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac
_
Go for a horseback ride on the beach
I really love horseback riding. I did it, remember, in Saint-Jean-de-Monts last year and in Scotland at the beginning of the year. The La Baule Equestrian Center offers beach rides for one hour, in the morning at 8:00 AM and in the evening at 8:00 PM (because horses are not allowed on the beach between those hours). I highly recommend it, because riding a horse on the beach in the early morning is truly magical! Below, a little photo of us in action (thanks to our guide for this shot).
La Baule Equestrian Center 5 avenue des rosières 44500 La Baule Price: 35 € for 10-18 year olds and 40 € for adults
_
Go for a catamaran ride
In all sincerity, I would never have thought of doing this kind of activity by the sea on my own, and yet I was quite wrong, because I loved it! The catamaran is a boat made of two hulls that works with the action of the wind in its sails.
This fairly sporty activity (because we are talking about small catamarans here) is perfect for speed and sea lovers. The sensations are immediate, and you can easily go for a ride accompanied by an instructor without having any navigation knowledge. You can fit up to 3 people on the Ki’wind catamarans (formerly Espace Voile Peyron), so it’s a perfect activity to do as a couple or with friends. The ride lasts about an hour, and the wetsuit (essential because you end up completely soaked) to put on over your swimsuit is provided by the sailing school.
Ki’wind (formerly Espace Voile Peyron) La Baule Price: 55 € for a one-hour private lesson + KL10.5 catamaran ride
_
Where to sleep in La Baule? My selection of hotels
Hôtel la Villa Bettina
This establishment, with a family guesthouse spirit, has belonged to the Ussim Vacances association since 1964 (which is itself part of the Ternélia tourism association network)
My recommended accommodations for this stay
Hôtel Villa Bettina
via BookingLe Resort Barrière de La Baule
via BookingHôtel Barrière l'Hermitage
via BookingCastel Marie-Louise
via BookingThe site, made up of 2 buildings with architecture typical of the region (Le Bettina and its annex Le Nid), is magnificent and particularly well-located, just a 5-minute walk from the beach, and at a very reasonable price. The general atmosphere is friendly and relaxed, and the gathering and social spaces like the bar/restaurant and the terrace are very well thought out.
The rooms:
The complex offers 33 rooms (for 1 to 4 people) with a clean, modern decor, but with a great dose of comfort. They are rather small (10 to 22 m²) but well-appointed.
Breakfast:
Hôtel Villa Bettina
5 avenue de Bettine 44500 La Baule tel: 02 40 60 23 93
The little extra: free wifi network in all rooms and common areas
Prices: 79 € per night in a double room (breakfast included) / 109 € per person full board on weekends / 379 € per person full board and double room for 7 days and 7 nights
_
The Resort Barrière de La Baule
Le Resort Barrière de La Baule
It is very interesting to discover that the history of the Barrière group is closely linked to the history of La Baule. Founded in 1912 by François André and subsequently developed by Lucien Barrière, this benchmark of luxury hospitality has spanned the ages and remains today the last French family-owned brand in this sector, with 41 casinos and 17 hotels. François André, captivated by the site, opened an establishment in La Baule in 1923 by purchasing the Hôtel Royal and the casino, then had the Hermitage built in 1926. He thus developed a resort concept by bringing his philosophy of tourism, based on the French art of living.
The resort’s establishments:
L’Hôtel Barrière l’Hermitage
This magnificent building, constructed in 1927, immerses us in the charm of the Belle Époque. The establishment also has a restaurant facing the ocean, the Eden Beach.
We had the chance to visit one of the rooms, and I’ll let you admire the photos below. Of course, it is absolutely not within everyone’s budget, but if you go to La Baule, just try to enter the building to admire the interior decor, and why not have a little drink there? It’s much more accessible.
Note for later: try one of the bar’s signature cocktails, which just look delicious…
Hôtel Barrière l’Hermitage 5, esplanade Lucien Barrière, La Baule
_
Le Castel Marie-Louise
This neo-Gothic style manor was the personal home of Marie-Louise André, the wife of François André, the founder of the Barrière group. Today, it retains the charm of a character home (which is actually part of the Relais & Châteaux network) and features a highly renowned gourmet restaurant.
Castel Marie-Louise 1 avenue Andrieu La Baule
_
ORA The Longevity Bay
The Center offers numerous programs for the well-being of body and mind: smoking cessation, balance program for seniors, back pain program, detox program or getaway, neuropeps program, burn-out prevention program, fitness, light legs, golf and well-being, learning to lose weight properly, slimming silhouette, youth secret, mom & tot, massages from here and elsewhere, Morpheus, harmony,…
For my part, I tested a lagoon water bath in the Instants Marins area. Immersed in a bath of hot water, thousands of bubbles and jets massage and relax the whole body, with a bit of chromotherapy as a bonus. This treatment immediately reminded me of the one I discovered last year in Auvergne.
_
L’Hôtel Barrière Le Royal
Originally, the building constructed in 1895 was a hospital, then it became a hotel in 1902. Today, the establishment offers 72 rooms and 15 suites, as well as the adjoining ORA thalassotherapy center. It also has a Fouquet’s restaurant where we had the chance to have lunch. Like all Fouquet’s (I had also tested the one in Marrakech if you remember correctly), the menu is developed in collaboration with Pierre Gagnaire in the spirit of the Parisian brasserie dear to the Barrière group.
It should be noted that regional products are highlighted on the restaurant menu, and a dietary menu (in connection with the thalasso) is also offered to reduce calories without losing flavor on the plate. Part of the menu also focuses on the use of algae in cooking as well as their benefits.
To taste:
- The traditional carnaroli risotto, with arugula, sun-dried tomatoes, and parmesan (16 €). This generous plate could almost serve as a main course (well, okay, for my small appetite) and I was quite surprised to find it among the starters. In any case, it is delicious and I recommend it with my eyes closed.
- The 9 oysters no. 2 from the Île aux Moines beds (23 €), for seafood lovers, obviously.
- The green lentil salad with langouille (a local pork preparation), with a tangy vinaigrette (14 €), one of the starters from the “well-being” menu.
- The roasted cod loin with a yellow carrot and tarragon velouté and cauliflower (27 €), one of the dishes from the “well-being” menu.
- Duck breast and foie gras biscuit with a mint zucchini cream, peas, snow peas, and semi di melone (26 €).
- The wild whiting with yellow curry, bok choy, and coconut yellow curry velouté, one of the dishes from the “well-being” menu.
- The Douarnenez, a local dessert with a pure butter Kouign-amann, chouchen ice cream (one of my favorite alcohols!), and salted butter caramel sauce, obviously (15 €), a killer! Well, in terms of calories, it’s better not to count…
- The Royal strawberries (the house’s signature dessert), with a shortbread tart with fresh strawberries, banana mousseline, and lemon crumble (15 €).
- The all-chocolate dessert (which is part of the well-being menu with only 212 kcal, it must be noted!), profiteroles, chocolate cream, and cocoa sorbet (15 €).
The detox plan: the well-being menu at 54 € with starter + main + dessert
The good deal: the lunch set menus valid every day
Hôtel Barrière Le Royal / Restaurant Fouquet’s 6, avenue Pierre Loti La Baule open every lunch and dinner
_
Good deals by Barrière
– In August, Eden Beach and Le Ponton offer free salsa classes open to everyone with Cafe Con Leche.
– Eden Beach organizes after-work and beach parties on Friday and Saturday evenings from 5 PM to 10 PM with -50% on drinks from July 15 to August 20, 2016.
– Free live concerts directly from the Barrière hotels and piano bar evenings.
– The organization of a fashion show accessible for free every year by Luc de la Chamade (boutique in the passage of the Royal, esplanade François André).
_
My other great addresses
- A must-bring back if you are passing through La Baule, the Fondant Baulois, a succulent chocolate cake with a secret recipe… All I can say is that it is just delicious!
Le Fondant Baulois 131 avenue de Gaulle 44500 La Baule open Tuesday to Saturday from 10 AM to 1 PM and 3 PM to 7 PM, Sunday from 3 PM to 7 PM
_
Crêp’ap’Art 14, rue du Centre 44510 Le Pouliguen
_
La Villa 18 avenue du Général de Gaulle 44500 La Baule
_
Practical Information about La Baule
- La Baule is 3 hours by TGV from Paris from the Montparnasse station, and the station is then quite central.
- To prepare for your stay, don’t hesitate to take a look at the La Baule Tourist Office website.
- My tips: the month of June is ideal for discovering La Baule because the weather is already nice and yet the city is still very little occupied by tourists. You can easily walk quietly on the beach, almost alone in the world… And it’s so pleasant! As you can see just above, I even took the opportunity to do some Ashtanga yoga on the beach with Virginie from Breizh Yoga (thanks to the Nantes blogger Mocassin serre tête for this beautiful photo).
_
I hope that with all this I will have made you want to discover or re-discover La Baule and if you also have your own great addresses for going out and visiting this city, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Mademoiselle Bon Plan Photos not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
