La Baule is a place that feels somewhat timeless, lost between the remnants of 19th-century tourism with its magnificent villas built at the dawn of the railway era, and the concrete residences of 20th-century family tourism. However, this reductive vision of the seaside resort is only one aspect of La Baule, which actually owes its name to a spelling error; it was originally intended to be called “la Bôle,” which means “marshy area”… A name much less glamorous than the current image of the resort…
The city’s fame also owes much to its natural environment, the scent of its maritime pines, its 9 km of beach, and its bay—one of the most beautiful in the world—as well as its salt marshes in the heart of the Brière Regional Natural Park. Another peculiarity: this culturally Breton territory is administratively attached to the Loire-Atlantique department. Yet, you can definitely feel a Breton wind blowing through the traditions and gastronomy of the region. In this article, I offer you a selection of things to do in La Baule, as well as my list of great addresses for hotels and restaurants, plus some tips for exploring the city, all embellished with beautiful photos (I am quite objective) taken by my favorite photographer.
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Table of Contents
Touring the city and discovering the villas of La Baule by bike
This is certainly the best way to discover the city. This tour organized by the La Baule Tourist Office is a must if it is your first time visiting. You get a short tour of the resort (which can help with orientation afterward) and it allows you to learn the main history of La Baule. From July 13th to August 26th, the La Baule Tourist Office offers the chance to discover different neighborhoods of La Baule under various themes, either on foot or by bike (be careful though, bikes are not provided).
Bike rides
Price: 7€ per person / 3€ for 6-12 year olds / free for children under 6
Reservation required at the La Baule Tourist Office, at the ticket counters or online
from July 13th to August 26th, 2016
8 Place de la Victoire, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac_
Go for a horseback ride on the beach
I really love horseback riding. I did it, if you remember, in Saint-Jean-de-Monts last year and in Scotland at the beginning of the year. The La Baule Equestrian Center offers beach rides for an hour, in the morning at 8:00 AM and in the evening at 8:00 PM (as horses are not allowed on the beach between those hours). I highly recommend it, because riding a horse on the beach in the early morning is truly magical! Below, a little photo of us in action (thanks to our guide for this shot).
La Baule Equestrian Center
5 avenue des rosières 44500 La Baule
Price: 35 € for 10-18 year olds and 40 € for adults_
Go for a catamaran ride
In all sincerity, I would never have thought to try this type of activity at the seaside on my own, and yet I was very wrong, because I loved it! A catamaran is a boat with two hulls that operates by the action of the wind in its sails.
This quite sporty activity (as these are small catamarans) is perfect for fans of speed and the sea. The sensations are immediate, and you can easily go on a ride accompanied by an instructor even without any navigation knowledge. You can fit up to 3 people max on the Les Voiles Peyron catamarans, making it a perfect activity to do as a couple or with friends. The ride lasts about an hour and the wetsuit (essential because you end up completely soaked) to put on over your swimsuit is provided by the sailing school.
Les Voiles Peyron La Baule Price: 55 € for an hour of private lesson + ride in a KL10.5 catamaran
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Below I offer my small selection of great addresses and unmissable spots in the resort, both in terms of accommodation and gastronomy.
Hôtel la Villa Bettina
This establishment, with a family guesthouse spirit, has belonged to the Ussim Vacances association since 1964 (which is itself part of the Ternélia network of tourism associations) and has just been completely renovated after 8 months of work.
The site, composed of 2 buildings with typical regional architecture (Le Bettina and its annex Le Nid), is magnificent and particularly well-located, a 5-minute walk from the beach, all at a very reasonable price. The general atmosphere is friendly and relaxed, and the gathering and sharing spaces like the bar/restaurant and terrace are very well thought out.
The rooms:
The complex offers 33 rooms (for 1 to 4 people) with a sleek and modern decor, but with a good dose of comfort. These are rather small (10 to 22 m²) but well-arranged.
Breakfast:
Hôtel Villa Bettina 5 avenue de Bettine 44500 La Baule tel: 02 40 60 23 93 The little extra: free wifi network in all rooms and common areas Prices: 79 € per night in a double room (breakfast included) / 109 € per person in full board on weekends / 379 € per person in full board and double room for 7 days and 7 nights
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The Barrière Resort of La Baule
It is very interesting to discover that the history of the Barrière group is closely linked to the history of La Baule. Founded in 1912 by François André and subsequently developed by Lucien Barrière, this benchmark of luxury hotels has weathered the eras and remains today the last French family-owned brand in this sector, with 41 casinos and 17 hotels. François André, seduced by the site, opened an establishment in La Baule in 1923 by buying the Hôtel Royal and the casino, then had the Hermitage built in 1926. He thus developed a resort concept by bringing his philosophy of tourism, based on the French art of living.
The resort’s establishments:
Hôtel Barrière l’Hermitage
This magnificent building constructed in 1927 immerses us in the charm of the Belle Epoque. The establishment also owns a restaurant located facing the ocean, the Eden Beach.
We had the chance to visit one of the rooms, and I’ll let you admire the photos below. Of course, it is absolutely not within everyone’s budget, but if you go to La Baule, just try to enter the building to admire the interior decor and why not have a drink there—it’s much more accessible.
Note for later: test one of the bar’s signature cocktails, which just look delicious…
Hôtel Barrière l'Hermitage 5, esplanade Lucien Barrière, La Baule
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The Castel Marie-Louise
This neo-Gothic Manor was the personal home of Marie-Louise André, the wife of François André, the founder of the Barrière group. It retains the charm of a character home today (which is actually part of the Relais & Châteaux network) and has a very renowned gourmet restaurant.
Castel Marie-Louise 1 avenue Andrieu La Baule
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The Thalassotherapy Center Thalasso & Spa Barrière by Thalgo
The Center offers numerous programs for the well-being of the body and mind: smoking cessation, balance program for seniors, back pain program, detox program or getaway, neuropeps program, burn-out prevention program, fitness, light legs, golf and well-being, learning to lose weight effectively, slimming silhouette, secret of youth, mom & toddler, massage from here and elsewhere, morpheus, harmony,…
For my part, I tested a lagoon water bath, in the Marine Moments. Immersed in a warm water bath, thousands of bubbles and jets massage and relax the whole body, with a bit of chromotherapy as a bonus. This treatment immediately reminded me of the one I discovered last year in Auvergne.
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Hôtel Barrière Le Royal
Originally, the building constructed in 1895 was a hospital, then it became a hotel in 1902. Today the establishment offers 72 rooms and 15 suites as well as the adjoining thalassotherapy center. It also owns a Fouquet’s restaurant where we had the chance to have lunch. Like all Fouquet’s (I had also tested the one in Marrakech, if you remember correctly), the menu is developed with the collaboration of Pierre Gagnaire in the spirit of the Parisian brasserie dear to the Barrière group.
It should be noted that regional products are highlighted in the restaurant’s menu, and a dietary menu (in connection with the thalasso) is also offered to reduce calories without losing flavor on the plate. Part of the menu also highlights the use of seaweed in cooking as well as their benefits.
To taste:
- The traditional carnaroli risotto, with arugula, sun-dried tomatoes, and parmesan (16 €). This generous plate could almost serve as a main dish (okay, fine for my small appetite) and I was quite surprised to find it in the starters. In any case, it is delicious and I recommend it with my eyes closed.
- The 9 oysters No. 2 from the Île-aux-Moines farms (23 €), for seafood lovers, obviously.
- The green lentil salad with langouille (a local pork preparation), with an acidic vinaigrette (14 €), one of the starters from the “wellness” menu.
- The roasted cod fillet with a yellow carrot velouté with tarragon and cauliflower (27 €), one of the dishes from the “wellness” menu.
- Duck breast and foie gras biscuit with courgette cream with mint, peas, snow peas, and semi di melone (26 €).
- Wild whiting with yellow curry, pak choi cabbage, coconut yellow curry velouté, one of the dishes from the “wellness” menu.
- The Douarnenez, a local dessert with a Kouign-amann pure butter, chouchen ice cream (one of my favorite alcohols!) and a salted butter caramel sauce, obviously (15 €), a killer! Well, regarding calories on this one, it’s better not to count…
- The Royal strawberries (the house’s signature dessert), with a shortbread tart with fresh strawberries, banana mousseline, and lemon crumble (15 €).
- The all-chocolate dessert (which is part of the wellness menu with only 212 kcal, worth noting!), profiteroles, chocolate cream, and cocoa sorbet (15 €).
The detox plan: the wellness menu at 54 € with starter + main course + dessert
The great deal: the lunch formulas valid every day
- starter & main course or main course & dessert + 1/2 bottle of mineral water + 1 coffee for 29 €
- starter & main course & dessert + 1/2 bottle of mineral water + 1 coffee for 36 €
Hôtel Barrière Le Royal / Fouquet's Restaurant 6, avenue Pierre Loti La Baule open every lunch and dinner
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Great deals by Barrière
– In August, Eden Beach and the Ponton offer free salsa lessons open to everyone with Cafe Con Leche.
– Eden Beach organizes after-work and beach parties on Friday and Saturday evenings from 5 PM to 10 PM with -50% on drinks from July 15th to August 20th, 2016.
– Free live concerts directly from the Barrière hotels and piano bar evenings.
– The organization of an annually free-to-access fashion show by Luc de la Chamade (boutique in the Royal passage, esplanade François André).
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My other great addresses
- A must-bring back if you go through La Baule: the Fondant Baulois, a succulent chocolate cake with a secret recipe… All I can say is that it is just delicious!
Le Fondant Baulois 131 avenue de Gaulle 44500 La Baule open Tuesday to Saturday from 10 AM to 1 PM and 3 PM to 7 PM, Sunday from 3 PM to 7 PM
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- Crêp’ap’Art, a very nice little creperie that uses organic flour and market products. Plus, the prices are very reasonable (about 7/8 € per crepe).
Crêp’ap’Art 14, rue du Centre 44510 Le Pouliguen
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- La Villa, a nice address with lovely decor, very central with good salads (Bonito salad at 15.80 €) and an interesting lunch menu (starter + main course menu at 15 €). Nothing exceptional in terms of cuisine but it serves its purpose.
La Villa 18 avenue du Général de Gaulle 44500 La Baule
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Practical Information on La Baule
- La Baule is 3 hours by TGV from Paris from the Montparnasse station and the station is quite central afterward.
- To prepare for your stay, do not hesitate to take a look at the La Baule Tourist Office website.
- My tips: the month of June is ideal to discover La Baule because it is already beautiful weather and yet the city is still very little visited by tourists. You can definitely walk peacefully on the beach, almost alone in the world… And it’s so pleasant! As you can see just above, I even took the opportunity to do some Ashtanga yoga on the beach with Virginie from Breizh Yoga (thanks to the blogger from Nantes Mocassin serre tête for this beautiful photo).
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I hope that with all this, I will have made you want to discover or rediscover La Baule, and if you also have your great addresses for going out and visiting this city, do not hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Mademoiselle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
