I didn’t know the Auvergne. This land of volcanoes, thermal springs, lakes, and waterfalls was almost completely unknown to me, and within this territory, the volcanic Sancy Massif—part of the Auvergne Volcanoes Regional Natural Park—even less so. The magic of blogging is also that it takes me on unknown roads I might never have thought to travel on my own, and it always allows me to make wonderful discoveries, have enriching encounters, and live unforgettable moments. Among my great discoveries, I learned that the geological features and volcanic activity of the region give rise to amazing curiosities in these strange landscapes, which have also given birth to numerous tales and legends…
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Table of Contents
Hiking to the top of Puy de Sancy
The highest point of the Massif Central at 1886 m, Puy de Sancy is a stratovolcano (several volcanoes nested into each other) that offers a stunning panorama of the atypical volcanoes of the Massif. This hike is quite easy by heading to the top of Puy de Sancy thanks to the cable car (open from April to September and from December to March, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.).
Once at the top, you continue the ascent via a wooden staircase, then slowly descend along the ridge path while admiring the fauna (some small marmots in the distance) and the flora (the mountain soldanella, sulfur anemone, spring gentian, or even the dwarf sheep’s bit) of its glacial valleys. The best option is still to be accompanied by a guide (Mont-Dore guides’ office) to best enjoy this walk and learn as much as possible about the many plant and animal species of the region.
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A short stop in Mont-Dore
This small town with a mountain character, located at the sources of the Dordogne, is renowned for the purity of its air and the quality of its thermal waters. Below, I give you some good addresses we tested during our stop in Mont-Dore.
The Mont-Dore Thermal Baths
It is on the site of the Mont-Dore thermal resort (already in use since at least the Gallo-Roman era) nestled against the mountain, that the Chaîne Thermale du Soleil today offers specialized treatments in the care of respiratory tracts and rheumatology, thanks to the ferruginous and siliceous chloro-bicarbonated waters that emerge in the very heart of the establishment. The magnificent neo-Byzantine style building, built in the 19th century by Louis Charles Ledru, is worth the visit to the thermal baths on its own, especially to admire its superb interior decor, its Gustave Eiffel style framework, or the frescoes painted at the end of the 19th century.
One can also admire remains of the ancient Gallo-Roman thermal baths (columns, statues, stone blocks, capitals, …) preserved inside the current building. It is a place with multiple riches and activities: thermalism, fitness, spa treatments,… But no need to be a cure patient to come to the thermal baths, you can also go to the Thermal Spa to enjoy à la carte treatments or within packages as was the case for us.
I was lucky enough to be able to test 2 treatments in the Spa Liberté package (€35):
- high-pressure jet in the pool, in a thermal water pool, a powerful jet relaxes the muscles of the body and drains the tissues for deep relaxation.
- 1 remineralizing hydromassage bath in a cabin, immersed in a hot water bath, thousands of bubbles massage and relax the whole body, with a bit of chromotherapy as a bonus.
Mont-Dore Thermal Baths 1 place du Panthéon 63240 Le Mont-Dore open from April 09 to November 10, 2015
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Hôtel Le Russie
This charming 2-star hotel located a few meters from the thermal baths was renovated very recently. The rooms offer a mix of contemporary style and warmth with an all-wood decoration. As a bonus, each room has its own piece of art, installed on the headboard, which can sometimes be a photograph of the installations from the Horizons event (see later in the article).
The restaurant Le 1050, adjacent to the hotel, offers a very cozy woody dining room with a mountain spirit and serves rather refined traditional cuisine. The chef, Stéphan Ouray, elegantly presents typical dishes around the flavors of the region.
Hôtel Le Russie 3, rue Favart 63240 Le Mont-Dore Restaurant prices: lunch menu from €19 / menu at €23 / from €26 to €40 a la carte Hotel prices: from €60 to €80 per night for a room depending on the season
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The hot water springs of the Dordogne
The Croizat hot water spring in Mont-Dore (temperature 40 degrees), once known only to locals, is a real good find, as it is accessible for free (you just need to know its location) and it has been developed by the General Council, a bit like a kind of natural spa… There are obviously several hot springs of this type and their locations are sometimes kept secret by the Auvergnats, we easily understand why…
How to get there: the hot spring is located on the path that runs along the Dordogne between Le Mont-Dore and La Bourboule. To get there, you can start from the Taillerie du Sancy parking lot (direction Murat-le-Quaire from Le Mont-Dore).
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Lac Pavin
This maar or black volcanic crater lake with abyssal depths (92 m!), located at 1197 m altitude, is filled with legends. It is one of the most beautiful lakes in Auvergne and one of the iconic sites of the Sancy Massif. This exceptional site is actually the last volcano in France to have erupted 6,900 years ago. The waters of Lake Pavin have an interesting scientific specificity; it is said to be a meromictic lake, because the surface waters and deep waters do not mix, creating fascinating bacterial life in the depths for researchers. These waters are actually classified as Historical Monuments!
To taste:
The specialty of the lake, the Arctic Char, prince of the place (and caught on site), at the restaurant located on the shore of the lake, run by the chef François Joubert, Toque d’Auvergne. A perfect place for a relaxing lunch by the lake.
Lac Pavin François and Hélène Joubert 63610 Besse et Saint-Anastaise Prices: menus at €21.50 or €27.50
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After your meal, I advise you to take the short walk around the lake (about 1.5 hours), which will allow you to digest while remembering the local legend, which tells the story of a city swallowed under the waters of this intriguing lake…
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Horizons Art Nature Festival in Sancy
The principle of this festival (this is its 9th edition this year) is to install contemporary art works in the landscapes of Sancy. About ten artists are chosen each year (out of hundreds of entries) with “full-scale” art projects, in connection with the natural sites. These ephemeral installations, renewed every year, are inserted in the heart of the Sancy Massif, in craters, rivers, lakes, waterfalls,…
The good tip: a map showing the locations of the works is available for free at the Sancy tourist offices and the sites, and the works (11 this year) are obviously free to access.
Horizons Art Nature Festival in Sancy From June 13 to September 27, 2015
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The Sancylian Oddities I visited:
- “I dreamed of a Castle”, young talent selection by Time Maker’s (Jean Combes, Gabriel Emard and Nicolas Vinadelle).
Location: Roche Vendeix, La Bourboule
This royal blue wooden structure, perched on a volcanic promontory, offers a very beautiful view of the surroundings and tells the legend about the destruction of the Roche castle by the inhabitants in the 14th century.
- “Sinfonia invisible #2”, by Tiziana Bertoncini, Italian musician and visual artist.
Location: Near the Chiloza waterfalls, on the couze Pavin
The artist has installed a series of 20 transparent plexiglass tubes suspended in the trees, next to a waterfall. These tubes are intermediaries for listening to the surrounding sounds in this haven of peace.
- “Temporary Ruins” by The Cloud Collective, Floriane Pic and Joris Lipsch
Location: Pré de l’homme, above Saint-Nectaire
Installation of 2 pavilions made of superimposed polycarbonate plates, perched on a promontory at 900 m altitude, with a magnificent panoramic view of the village of Saint-Nectaire and its Romanesque church, the medieval castle of Murol, and the ridges of Sancy.
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Gastronomy and good addresses around the Sancy Massif
As usual, you will find below my selection of good addresses around the Sancy Massif (products and restaurants) that I had the opportunity to test during my stay in Auvergne.
Le Saint-Nectaire
It’s not just a cheese, it is also the name of an Auvergnat village set on the foothills of the Sancy Massif, which indeed produces the famous eponymous cheese and which has a very beautiful 12th-century Romanesque church. The latter also houses within it a magnificent treasure, including the 12th-century gold bust of Saint-Baudime, a book cover, and the reliquary arm of Saint-Nectaire, dating from the same period.
But back to our cheese: this pressed, uncooked, flowery-rind cheese, AOP made from 100% Auvergnat cow’s milk (and AOC since 1955), is a specialty of the Monts Dore region, straddling the departments of Puy-de-Dôme and Cantal.
What I learned during my stay is to clearly distinguish the farmhouse Saint-Nectaire from the dairy Saint-Nectaire. The farmhouse one is made twice a day (just after the morning and evening milkings), from raw whole milk on a farm (recognizable by its green oval stamp). The dairy one is made in a dairy with milk from several farms (recognizable by its green rectangular stamp). I advise you to take the guided tour of the GAEC des Estives farm (about 1 hour) to discover how farmhouse Saint-Nectaire is made.
You can also visit the cellar where the Saint-Nectaire are matured for at least 28 days to obtain their flowery rind oscillating between gray and orange-brown.
Tip: you can drink with a small slice of Saint-Nectaire a Saint Verny Boudes Côtes d’Auvergne red or a Saint Pourçain white, to stay within the local wine productions.
The good tip: There is a map of the Auvergne AOP Cheese Route to visit farms and cheese dairies in the region.
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Le Cellier muratois in Murat-le-Quaire
This small village with slate roofs, dominated by the volcanic peak of the Banne d’Ordanche and overlooking the Bourboule and the Upper Dordogne Valley, houses a very nice address installed in an old-fashioned farm that works with local producers and farmers to offer Auvergnat specialties: cheeses, charcuterie, wines, aperitifs, honey, syrups.
The good idea: stop at the establishment’s tearoom for a little snack with your feet in the grass, tasting homemade treats.
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Some good tips and practical information on the Sancy Massif
- To get to the Sancy Massif, it takes about 4 hours by car from Paris.
- Sancy is organizing a major photo contest on its social networks from July 1st to August 31st, 2015. The principle is simple: just post a photo of a recognizable place in the massif in which you find a heart-shaped pattern while adding #IloveSancy. Several contest categories are offered with as many prizes to win!
- The Club Sancy offers access to good deals and preferential rates, and it regularly offers VIP invitations via contests.
- The Sancy Tour application to download once there so as not to miss any local events, good addresses, and other activities.
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And you, do you know the Auvergne? Don’t hesitate to share your good addresses and tips in the comments!
Photo credits: Mademoiselle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, photographer authorization mandatory before any use
